Walk of the week: Beinn a'Chlachair

Published on Sunday 14 March 2010 10:31

Beinn a'Chlachair

Beinn a'Chlachair was perhaps not the best of decisions, for in passing Dalwhinnie it was obvious the hills were covered in a heavy dump of soft, fresh snow. On the way, Jimbo, John, Bruce and I had searched for a coffee stop, but all places were closed. Having had no breakfast, Bruce, with the authority of he who has the car keys, was getting anxious. Jimbo came to the rescue. He called his friends, Alan and Belinda, who own the hostel at Tulloch station, and they kindly provided cooked breakfasts all round.

Extending for two miles above 900m, Beinn a'Chlachair's plateau is covered by a jumble of stones that increase in size towards the 1087m/ 3566ft summit cone above Coire Mor Chlachair, such that a traverse from the north-east may take longer than anticipated unless there is a hard, white winter pavement.

Mystery surrounds the name. Beinn a'Chlachair means hill of the stonemason, yet stones could never have been transported all the way from the summit. The naming could be whimsy; the stones seen as debris from the workings of a mythical giant mason, his quarry being Coire Mor Chlachair, the vast gouge on the northern slopes.

The hill is often climbed from Loch Laggan, four miles to the north, as an add-on to the Creag Pitridh/Geal Charn duo. After the breakfast calorie intake it was gone 11am before we started, with the prospect of returning in the dark – too late for John and Bruce to include the other two Munros.

Nevertheless, the grey clag had lifted to reveal a wonderful winter day of sun, blue sky and no wind.

The route

You will need Ordnance Survey map 42, Glen Garry & Loch Rannoch. Park on the south side of the A86, at map ref 433831. Cross the unattractive concrete bridge over the River Spean for the initially broad track that climbs easily for 2 miles to reach a small reservoir at the track junction at map ref 453808. At that point it was a case of stripping off hats, gloves and fleeces. Although the track makes for fast walking, it is usually worth taking a bike, but not that day with the snow cover.

The popular, longer but easier graded, approach uses the stalkers' path that climbs by the Allt Coire Pitridh to the 739m Bhealaich Leamhain.

The path continues towards the crags that overlook the loch, then a worn path climbs south with a modest scramble to reach the stony plateau.

Bearing in mind the lateness of the day, however, we opted for the most direct way to the summit. This is from the reservoir, over Meall Odhar to reach the western rim of Coire Mor Chlachair. The lower ground, normally wet and rough, was full of soft snow, though following the footsteps of earlier hillwalkers was helpful.

Once over the moorland, the ground steepens. We headed slightly to the south-west at first, well clear of the crags, to ease the steepness.

It was still tiring work in the soft snow; a steady plod of only one mile but with a 2000ft climb. Higher up, crampons were put on to cope with the underlying firm nev. With the mixture of soft and firm snow, it was a struggle to get to the summit by 1:30pm. Bearing in mind the long way back, we did not linger.

After some enjoyable ice-axe controlled slides on descent, good practice for Bruce and John, it was a long, slowly chilling trudge back to the car. By now the clag had returned, the sun had set, and in the frost hollow the temperature had plunged to -5C.

Once frozen bootlaces had been released, we wasted no time in getting going. The Monadhliath Hotel, by Laggan, was open so we stopped awhile for chips. It was a late evening return home to end a delightful but challenging day.

Maps

Ordnance Survey map 42, Glen Garry & Loch Rannoch

Distance

9 miles

Height

800m

Terrain

Track then moorland leading to steeper slopes

Start point

Car park on south side of A86, map ref 433831

Time

5 to 6 hours

Nearest village

Roy Bridge or Laggan

Nearest refreshment spot

Monadhliath Hotel, Laggan

&#149 This article was first published in The Scotsman, Saturday March 13, 2010