War declared on fake black puds

Published on Thursday 9 October 2008 21:53

THE world-famous Stornoway black pudding, beloved by celebrity chefs, could be given European protection to stop counterfeiters. Highlands and Islands MSP Peter Peacock is seeking a "protected designation" order for the humble marag – as it is known in Gaelic – to stop black pudding wars breaking out.

The pudding is traditionally made by butchers in Stornoway on Lewis, each claiming a different secret recipe, but butchers in Glasgow and Edinburgh have been selling their own "Stornoway black pudding". Among stores that have taken the "fake puds", as they are described, is Harvey Nichols in Edinburgh.

Now Mr Peacock is seeking the support of the Scottish Parliament for an approach to the EC's agricultural and rural development directorate to restrict use of the term "Stornoway black pudding".

He said: "Stornoway black pudding is a distinctive product which has built its reputation on the basis of quality. It should not be undermined by unfair competition and misrepresentation.

"I think there is a very good case for getting it Protected Designation of Origin status and I am working with my European colleagues, as well as looking to the support from MSPs, to achieve this."

Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) is designed to protect the names of regional foods. The law, which was introduced in 1992, is currently enforced within the EU but is being gradually expanded around the world as different nationalities and regions strive to protect their products from imposters. It protects names of wines, cheeses, hams, sausages, olives and beers as well as regional breads, fruits and vegetables.

Examples are gorgonzola and parmigiano-reggiano cheese, and champagne, which can only be so labelled if it comes from that region of France.

For cheese to qualify as roquefort, for example, it must be made from milk of a certain breed of sheep, and matured in caves near the town of Roquefort in the Aveyron region of France, where it is infected with the spores of a fungus (Penicillium roqueforti) that grows there.

In Scotland Arbroath smokies have recently been given PDO status – as have Shetland and Orkney lamb. Current EU law also recognises certain quality spirits, such as Scotch whisky, and protects the name Scotch from foreign imitations.

The best-known maker of Stornoway black pudding is Charles Macleod, which claims a 50-year-old recipe. Iain Macleod, of the family firm, said he was aware of imitations. He said: "These things are very damaging because they undermine the reputation of the product. There is not a week goes by without another high- profile chef saying he has used Stornoway black pudding because it is the best."