Travel: Ski holiday for beginners, Morzine, Portes du Soleil, French Alps

Published on Monday 28 February 2011 15:28

CAN a complete novice learn to ski in three days? Alan Greenwood tries a crash course in the French Alps. . .

• Morzine, in the French Alps is just one hour's drive from Geneva Airport

The trouble with skiing is getting started. The potential rewards of taking up the sport are offset by several niggling obstacles.

There's the expense, for a start; flights, accommodation, equipment hire, lessons, lift passes not to mention spending cash for aprs ski. It represents a considerable outlay and there is always the danger that the piste may simply not be your cup of tea. The prospect of sitting halfway up a mountain with nothing to do save for something you do not want to do is no-one's idea of a memorable holiday.

Then there are the mechanics of learning to consider. Life is short and time is precious; too short to spend having instructions barked at you by a sergeant-major in luminous snow wear and too precious to bear the humiliation as a gaggle of seven-year-olds out-learn you at ski-school.

Wouldn't it be great if you could dip your toe in the water? Or, if you will, ski on the piste?

Welcome to Morzine. It might just be the place for you.

This unpretentious resort, in the Savoyard region of the French Alps, is a one-hour drive south of Geneva which in turn is just a two-hour flight from Edinburgh or Glasgow. Few Alpine resorts are easier to get to from Scotland.

• Chalet Amis, one of three properties run by TGSki in Morzine

The village's enterprising tourism authority has come up with an appealing package for beginners, called YouCanSki. Various offers are available but the entry level deal - three days' equipment hire, lift passes and group lessons – is an out-and-out bargain at just 169 euros (around 140 at current rates).

The big question is; can you learn to ski in three days? Well, no, of course not. But, with the benefit of some patient instruction, three days proved enough time for your clod-hopping, middle aged correspondent to find his feet, learn the basics and tackle some of the resort's easiest runs.

The tuition itself proved a big part of the fun. Far from being an extended ordeal of falls, flails and embarrassing bumps, our party of three – all beginners, all grown-ups – was taken through the basics quickly but not with undue haste. Spurred on by the visible advances each novice was making we were guided on to the nursery slopes and, within hours of committing ski blades to snow for the first time, going out on our own.

• Chalet Amis interior

While we beginners made progress the other members of our party were taking advantage of Morzine's links to one of the largest ski areas in Europe.

The Portes du Soleil covers 650 square kilometres and incorporates 12 resorts spanning the Franco-Swiss border. A ski-pass covering the dozen resorts offers a virtually limitless range of options for skiers and snowboarders.

As it was early in the season, most of our skiing was done in Avoriaz, a modern, purpose-built resort five miles east, and 800 metres uphill, from Morzine.

Car-free Avoriaz, a collection of 1960's high rise hotels and apartments, offers a wide choice of runs and, at 1800 metres above sea level, the snow record is much better than other Portes du Soleil centres, but the resort cannot match it's neighbour's unassuming charm.

Morzine, a low-rise collection of traditional chalets housing some three thousand people, rises on the banks of a deep river gorge. It's a ski town but work is continuing to improve its profile as a year-round destination. A new leisure centre and swimming pool will open this year, while a succession of festivals are planned to ensure the flow of visitors does not melt away with the snow.

Nightlife, in early season at least, is low-key but engaging. The only beer on offer at Le Robinson's bar near the village square is a local brew which demands respect. Best taken in small rations, it offers plenty of protection against the chill of an Alpine evening.

The small cluster of streets in the village centre provides a variety of dining options. L'Etale, on Taille de Mas du Pleney, is among the best, serving a range of Savoyard staples such as fondue and raclette in a lively and welcoming atmosphere.

• Chalet Amis bedroom

Our hosts in Morzine were TGski, who operate two chalets and a bed and breakfast in the. They over a full service; airport collection and drop-off, full board and lifts to and from local ski areas.

Their Chalet Amis property is perched on the hills to the west of the village and offers panoramic views across town and towards Switzerland. The property is well equipped, featuring a sauna, an outdoor spa bath and a entertainment room with the latest video games. Best of all, however, was the warm welcome provided by the chalet team. Helpful, cheerful and with culinary skills to put many restaurants to shame – an evening meal involving duck, fresh chillies, ginger and carrots lives on in the memory.

So while you may not be able to learn how to ski in three days, it's perfectly possible for anyone – even an absolute beginner – to get bitten by the bug.

• Author was the guest of TGSKI (www.tgski.co.uk; 01452 731 000) who offer full service chalet and bed and breakfast accommodation.

• easyJet flies to Geneva from various UK airports including Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool, Gatwick, Stansted, Luton, Manchester and Newcastle. Prices one-way start from 27.99 and include all taxes (prices are subject to change). Visit www.easyJet.com to book.

• Find out more about YouCanSki packages at www.esf-morzine.com/

• L'Etale restaurant, Taille de Mas du Pleney, offers traditional Savoyard cuisine (mains from 10 euros, reservations recommended).