Travel: Paradise found in Hong Kong

Published on Friday 14 November 2008 11:34

Life in Hong Kong may be frenetic, but there are plenty of ways to soak up the eclectic mix of cultures and vibrant atmosphere without breaking sweat

IT BOASTS some of the world's most expensive real estate, the finest luxury shopping and one of the highest concentrations of fine dining establishments anywhere on the planet, but the most endearing attraction of Hong Kong is free for all. Shortly before sunset, settle yourself on the beautiful promenade that is the Avenue of Stars, on Kowloon, and across Victoria Harbour the city reinvents itself as a magical playground complete with dazzling laser-beam shows and stunning fireworks displays.

Every evening, the performance is repeated, yet each time it appears somehow different – and is the perfect start before setting out to sample the unforgettable experience that is Hong Kong.

There is only one way to arrive – gliding from Chek Lap Kok airport in the back of a Rolls-Royce, courtesy of the Peninsula Hotel (which many believe to be the finest hotel in the world). From the moment you get off the plane and are greeted prior to immigration by an immaculately uniformed member of the hotel's staff, you know you are in for an unforgettable and truly remarkable stay.

By the time you pass through Customs, your bags have been picked up and escorted to your limousine. Cool towels and iced water are provided by the chauffeur as classical Chinese music plays gently during the 30-minute journey into Kowloon.

If all this sounds like the everyday life of a Hollywood A-lister or a head of state, then that is exactly what it feels like. And it is just the beginning. The closer you get to the centre of Kowloon, the more you realise just how fascinating, congested and chaotic the place is. Even if you have travelled to Hong Kong before, the sheer vibrancy of this buzzing city never fails to quicken the pulse.

Situated just yards from the Avenue of Stars, the Peninsula provides guests with a superb for exploring the region. The views from its harbour-facing rooms more than justify the supplement you may pay, and sipping a glass of champagne in your room as the boats slip by below is priceless.

Another of the city's delights is the Star ferry. Wandering down from the Peninsula to the terminal is just a short walk,but it provides a glimpse of what is central to Hong Kong's magic – the unique mix of East and West, old and new, Chinese, Indian, Malay, all mixed up and jumbled around.

The trip across the harbour costs less than 50p and takes only a few minutes, but is breathtaking in its beauty, no matter how many times you make it. On a rare clear day, the soaring skyscrapers of Hong Kong island are sharply silhouetted against Victoria Peak and the surrounding dark green hills. But even when shrouded in low-hanging cloud and mist – or even smog – the glass-fronted, steel-clad towers, home to many of the world's top companies, almost overwhelm you. This is certainly a land of architecturally beautiful behemoths.

Getting around Hong Kong is incredibly easy and cheap. The Mass Transit Railway (MTR) is extremely efficient, extensive and quick. Visitors should take a leaf out of the locals' book and buy an Octopus card, which provides great discounts on public transport and can be topped up during your stay.

Hong Kong's boast that it's the world's greatest city for shopping is not an empty one. Whether it is the gleaming malls boasting endless luxury stores or traditional shops selling wares such as jade or ancient Chinese antiques, the choice is yours.

If your stay is a brief one, try to get a taste of everything the city has to offer. Move around. Nip down a narrow street. Wander into a market. Just follow your eyes and inquiring mind. Don't worry, Hong Kong is safe. Very safe. The areas where you might encounter trouble – and they are few and far between – are in places that tourists would find it difficult to get to on their own, even by mistake.

But every so often any visitor to Hong Kong will require a breather. With new sights, smells and sounds at every turn, the city can, in a pleasant way, become ever so-slightly cloying. But fear not – just a few minutes from the hectic pace of the business districts of Central or Admiralty, you can easily find a tranquil antidote.

For the most-spectacular views of the city, take the funicular railway up to Victoria Peak to experience the awe-inspiring vista. And hop on a ferry to Lamma Island for a freshly caught seafood lunch at one of the many top-class and cheap restaurants there. Or what about a relaxing walk on one of the many well-signposted and popular trails that criss-cross the region? And if that leaves your pins a bit weary, visit a foot-massage specialist – for just a few pounds, you can spend an hour having your feet manipulated, pulled, kneaded and oiled by an expert.

After all that, head back to the Peninsula and imagine you have returned to colonial times, when Hong Kong was an integral part of the British Empire. The hotel's afternoon tea is a byword for tradition, exclusivity and slight excess. Served in the stunning lobby by immaculately groomed staff, the ritual remains a must-do for any visitor to Hong Kong – resident or not.

The indulgent round-the-clock service and grand surroundings mean that leaving the hotel is incredibly hard – and the only way to reduce that pain is to get back into that Rolls-Royce to the airport.

Your visit to Hong Kong may be over for now, but at least you know you'll be coming back.

Fact file: Hong Kong

A SUPERIOR room at the Peninsula Hong Kong (www.peninsula.com) costs from around 355 a night, with the Peninsula Suite setting you back staggering 5,770 a night.

A package is available through Elegant Resorts (01244 897505, www.elegantresorts.co.uk) for 1,765 per person, which includes a seven-night stay at the Peninsula on a room-only basis in a deluxe room. The price also covers economy flights with British Airways and private car transfers. This deal is based on a departure date of December 10 from Edinburgh airport, and is valid until December 31.