Travel: Hotel De Rome, Berlin, Germany

Published on Sunday 20 December 2009 16:18

THE grand square on which the five-star Hotel de Rome sits is the location of the Nazi book burnings of 1933. The event, commemorated by empty white bookshelves below ground, seen through a glass panel in the pavement, is an eerie reminder of this beautiful city's past.

Behrenstrasse 37, 10117 Berlin, Germany (00 800 7666 6667, www.roccofortecollection.com)

The hotel is in Berlin's Mitte district and was built in 1889 by the architect and master builder Ludwig Heim, to be the Dresdner Bank's headquarters. From 1945 until the fall of the Berlin Wall it was used by the East German Communist Party, later left empty and unused. Since then, like the rest of the city, it has undergone a massive makeover and now, as part of the Rocco Forte Collection, is a wonderful mix of contemporary chic and old-world Teutonic grandeur.

How do I get there? Ryanair offers direct flights from Edinburgh and Glasgow to Berlin Schoenefeld. Catch the airport express to Friedrichstrasse – it takes approximately 25 minutes. The hotel is a ten-minute walk from there.

What's the food like? Jrg Behrend has been head chef at the hotel's Parioli Restaurant since April. His menu focuses on top-notch ingredients and intense aromas, and doesn't disappoint with dishes such as sliced beef cutlet with tropea onions and pured potatoes with olive oil; fried pollack, courgettes with chanterelles; and sauted line-caught turbot on creamy fried artichokes. However, my perfectly cooked seafood ravioli starter, accompanied by a medley of fresh seafood, stole the show. A thick, leather-backed tome dedicated to fine wines and more means you won't go thirsty. Breakfast is a mouth-watering smorgasbord of meats, cheeses, pastries and yoghurts plus a hot a la carte menu, and a wide choice of freshly squeezed juices.

The Bebel Bar offers live music from Wednesdays to Saturdays, and the Opera Court, with its original glazed ceiling, is the perfect place for some afternoon tea.

Home comforts Sir Rocco's younger sister and major shareholder, Olga Polizzi, has collaborated with Tommas Ziffer, who also designed the interior of the collection's Hotel de Russie in Rome, to decorate the 146 rooms and suites. The room doors and handles have been made to resemble bank vault doors, a stylish nod to its wealthy past. The rooms feature a tri-colour scheme of dove blue, Pompeii red and beige, and are well equipped with the latest technology, including flat screens and internet access. DVD player and iPod docking station are available on request. The bathrooms feature mosaic marble detailing and are decked out with powerful stand-alone shower, double-ended bath and a loudspeaker system. However, it was the under-floor heating, so soothing on my tired tootsies following a day's sightseeing, that topped it all.

Bed test A king-sized bed covered in Italian linen plus a mountain of pillows make for a good night's slumber.

Out and about Berlin is the capital of Christmas markets. While other cities, in Germany and beyond, make do with a handful, it has 60 (and counting). Wrap up warm, as it gets rather chilly at this time of year, and follow the festive aromas of glhwein, gingerbread and roasted almonds. There are two markets close by: Winterzauber on Gendarmenmarkt and the Nostalgic Christmas Market at Opernpalais. The one at Gendarmenmarkt, one of the largest in Europe, is framed by the lit-up German and French cathedrals and the Berlin Concert House. As well as traditional hand-made crafts, art exhibitions and delicious seasonal snacks (traditional and fine dining), expect stage shows featuring jugglers, acrobats and fire-swallowers. At Opernpalais there's a traditional mix of German treats. Fuel up on bratwurst and a warming mug or two of glhwein while you watch the craftsmen ply their trade.

Little extras Complimentary water, a turndown service, Rocco Forte toiletries and a well-packed mini bar are all great touches, but it's the friendly and super-efficient staff that really make this a five-star experience.

The bottom line Rooms start from 305 (275), based on two people sharing a double room, including breakfast and 19 per cent VAT and service charge. Two-night Christmas and New Year packages start from 430 (386), including breakfast, use of the spa, sauna and pool, a card offering free entry to 70 museums and exhibitions for three days, tickets to the Christmas market at Gendarmenmarkt and 50 (45) credit for food and drink.

This article was first published in the Scotland on Sunday on December 20