Travel: Dubai

Published on Tuesday 5 April 2011 20:30

If you have any preconceptions of Dubai - too strict, too hot, too sandy etc etc - put them away for good and instead pack your bags and head for a taste of desert paradise.

In fact, the only thing you might have to worry about in this immaculate city is neck strain when you crane your head to gaze at some of the most adventurous skyscrapers in the world.

The Gulf state of Dubai has sprouted at breakneck pace, and even global recession has proven a mere blip in its architectural evolution, with construction sites advertising its ambition at every turn.

But there is so much more to Dubai than an impressive skyline, and it soon becomes apparent why it has emerged as a Mecca for holidaymakers in search of sun, sea and shopping in a sophisticated and stylish setting.

Emirates airline operates regular flights out of Glasgow, and it's just as well I'm not the starstruck type as I found myself heading into the departure lounge shoulder-to-shoulder with Boyzone, then Celtic defender Daniel Majstorovic, who was off to Dubai for a family holiday with his foot in a cast as he recuperates from injury.

I was looking simply to recuperate from the stresses of everyday life, and I started to do so as soon as I was airborne. Emirates make flying as comfortable as is possible, and the seven-hour journey - pardon the pun - flew by.

A 15-minute drive from the aircraft to the terminal building gives you an early hint that almost everything in Dubai is new, shiny and big. Indeed, the titanic Terminal 3 - which is used exclusively by Emirates - is the single largest building in the world when measured by floor space.

Our trip was designed to sample two contrasting hotels within the Jumeirah portfolio, and our first stop was the mind-blowing Madinat resort. On approach, you are greeted by a wonderful avenue lined with sculpted Arabian horses.

The elegant citadel-style resort comprises two main hotels - the centrepiece Al Qasr (palace) and Mina A'Salam (harbour of peace), plus the tranquil Dar Al Masyaf which knits together a variety of Arabian summer houses, nestling amid manicured gardens, yards from a private beach and the crystal clear ocean.

Well used to greeting guests whose bodies and minds are frayed by long-haul flights, the staff wasted no time in making us welcome. A buggy took us to our deluxe summer house suite, where our butler explained that he would be on call 24 hours, and one more thing: "Mr Colin, would you like an abra (boat] to take you to breakfast in the morning?"

The resort boasts 5.4km of inter-connecting waterways, and having woken from a super soft bed to that unbeatable holiday sound of the ocean waves, we hopped on to an abra and sailed to a buffet breakfast fit for a sheikh.

After a couple of hours exploring Madinat, you sense that it would be sorely tempting not to leave its perimeters during an extended break.

It is located adjacent to the iconic sail-shaped Burj Al Arab - perhaps the most recognisable landmark in Dubai - and as you laze on the golden sands and watch helicopters whirring to and from the ultimate in luxury hotels, you can't help but wonder how an architect had the idea, then the know-how, to bring such a unique structure to life.

Further up the beach is the wave-shaped Jumeirah Beach Hotel, and beside it the Wild Wadi Water Park, to which the Jumeirah guest has unlimited access.

Hurling down water chutes would have to wait, though, as we were off to lunch at one of the 44 restaurants and bars at Madinat - the Pierchic, which, as its name suggests, is perched at the end of a pier. Seafood is the speciality, and the sea bass I ordered was deliciously melt-in-the-mouth.

After an early afternoon stroll round the grounds, buzzing with the gentle whirr of the golf buggies transporting guests from A to B, we clambered on board another abra and were dropped off at the Talise Spa.

Now, most folk might opt for a relaxing massage, but I've always found convention a little overrated, so I declined the pampering and opted instead for an "optimal health assessment" - basically a body MOT with body scan, blood analysis, the works.

Once the results had been processed and analysed, I had a consultation with naturopath Dr Jaclyn Hunter, followed later by a more detailed written report. Instead of being lectured to, I was given some sound advice about my health and diet, and I left feeling like I'd done myself a real favour.

Health advice tucked away for future use, I still forced myself to take advantage of the complimentary drinks during happy hour, enjoyed in the snug courtyard, before leaving the cocoon of Madinat and seeing what delights Dubai by night has to offer.

Taxis are cheap, and often they hail you with a speculative toot of the horn, rather than the other way round. Traffic can be busy, but not infuriatingly so, and wherever you are headed, you will be there before long.

One of Dubai's proudest claims to fame is the world's tallest building - Burj Khalifa - which stands 828 metres (2,717ft) tall - and looms majestically over the flagship Downtown Dubai development.

A word of advice if you intend to take the guided tour, though - book online as your ticket will cost 100 dirhams (less than 20), whereas the walk-up price is 400 dirhams.At ground level you will find the Dubai Fountain, which features mesmerising light displays similar to Las Vegas, and if shopping is your bag, head into Dubai Mall (yup, you've guessed it, it's the largest in the world) and prepare to be wowed.

Sadly, our time at Madinat Jumeirah was up and we reluctantly said au revoir.

Every cloud (not that you see many in Dubai) has a silver lining, though, and it arrived soon enough in the guise of the slick, sophisticated Jumeirah Emirates Towers, located in the business heartland of the city.

The hotel has 400 rooms and suites, and is connected by a stylish shopping mall to a twin, largely office-based tower. It wears its slogan "where business meets pleasure" well.

Our room was 28 floors up and the view was breathtaking. After settling in, we travelled onwards and upwards via the smoothest, fastest all-glass elevator imaginable, to the Towers' signature restaurant - Vu's - on level 50, where our tastebuds were bombarded with flavours representing fine dining at its very best.

After an afternoon pool-side soaking up some rays, then early evening exploring Dubai's fascinating museum, old town and creek, it was out for a taste of Dubai nightlife.

The myth of not being able to get a drink should you want one was firmly buried when we visited the lively Irish village. The fleets of taxis outside offered proof that this is one of Dubai's most popular spots for holidaymakers, cabin crew and expats.

Dubai is the type of place where progress seems to happen in the blink of an eye, and while this trip to Dubai - made perfect by two very different Jumeirah hotels - was over all too soon, I expect that my next visit there will be a similarly enjoyable learning curve.

THE FACTS

Return flights from Glasgow to Dubai International start from around 550 (inclusive of taxes) with Emirates airline, www.emirates.com

For Hotel Dar El Masyaf at Madinat Jumeirah (rates variable, visit www.jumeirah.com) based on a double Arabian summerhouse, with breakfast and access to all of the Jumeirah facilities, prices generally start at around 2,500 AED (415 approx) per room, per night.

The Jumeirah Emirates Towers' (also at www.jumeirah.com) best available rate is 1,025 AED (180 approx). All guests can enjoy access to Wild Wadi Water Park and private beach. There is a complimentary shuttle service to Wild Wadi, Madinat Jumeirah, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, and Burj Khalifa/Dubai Downtown.

For more on Burjk Halifa tower, visit www.burjkhalifa.ae

Visit www.holidays.scotsman.com for more great holidays

This article was first published in The Scotsman, 30 April, 2011