Travel: Cape Town

Published on Wednesday 9 December 2009 13:12

THE final descent into Cape Town's international airport is as spectacular as any. After a sunrise over the Namibian coast, Table Mountain, partly enveloped by a wisp of cloud, stands proud against the pale light of early morning.

Below, amid the lush green valleys and jagged, granite mountain ranges, are the Cape vinelands, some of the most breathtaking and dramatic vineyards in the world. For the wine-lover looking for a fix of winter sun and some gastronomic adventure, there can surely be no better destination than the western Cape, especially during Scotland's bleak and unforgiving winter.

The overnight flight from Heathrow, which means a tea-time departure from Scotland, takes more than ten hours. But due to the minuscule one-hour time difference and a good sleep on the plane, we arrive fresh enough to hire a car and go. The absence of jet leg, especially on a seven-night trip, should not be underestimated.

The Cape actually possesses some of the oldest geology in the wine-growing world and three centuries of wine-making lineage. Long before France established itself as the benchmark of wine production, we drank wines from South Africa. A trip to the vineyards nestled around the towns of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Hermanus is to step back two centuries, as much of the way of life and early architecture of the Cape Dutch settlers has survived.

Our tour starts in the Constantia valley, about a 20-minute drive from the airport, an area once famed for its muscat but is now forging a reputation for its melony semillion, biscuity chardonnay and zippy sauvignon. We are staying at the Steenberg estate, a collection of beautifully restored 17th-century Cape Dutch buildings set below Steenberg Mountain.

Surrounded by a vineyard and a golf course, it is on the site of the Cape's oldest wine farm - dating back to 1682 - but with only 24 rooms it has the intimacy of a boutique hotel. The quality of service, led by general manager Gaby Gramm, is impeccable and the food, with an emphasis on Cape-European fusion, is superb. The recently refurbished Catharina's restaurant, with a dreamy view overlooking False Bay, is one of the best in the region.

If you can pull yourself away from the Eden-like gardens, swimming pool and spa, Steenberg is an ideal base from which to explore the attractions of Cape Town such as Table Mountain, the Waterfront centre, Robben Island, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens and Cape Point Nature Reserve. A must is Boulders Beach, near the former British naval base of Simon's Town, to visit the jackass penguin colony.

As well as the winery at Steenberg, run by the renowned wine producer Graham Beck, Groot Constantia has daily tours, a museum and two restaurants. Another must is Vaughan Johnson's wine shop, on the Waterfront, with its vast choice of South African tipples at reasonable prices.

From Constantia, it is a morning's drive to the heartland of South African wine, the picturesque university town of Stellenbosch. Take the long route and incorporate Chapman's Peak Drive, which is carved into solid rock and is one of the world's most spectacular marine drives.

Stellenbosch is the second-oldest town in South Africa and, with its stately, tree-lined avenues, Cape Dutch buildings, pretty art galleries and array of restaurants and cafs, it is arguably the province's most beautiful. Two minutes' drive from the centre, under the shade of a line of oak trees, sits River Manor guesthouse.

This friendly, upmarket bed and breakfast offers a taste of colonial grandeur. With its eclectic antiques, fragrant guava trees, rose-petal-strewn beds and wicker chairs, it is delightfully romantic and oozing charm. The owners, Johan and Leigh, are on hand after breakfast to guide you through the day. In between wine visit,s we opted to stroll around the town's bookshops and cafs. But you could just as easily just laze by its pool and indulge yourself with a pampering treatment at the spa.

One of the closest, and certainly the most picturesque, wineries nearby is Rustenberg, which has a romantic, pastoral feel. Its superb John X Merriman Bordeaux blend is one of South Africa's best. Boschendal is the best-organised for visitors, with a choice of restaurants. Eating out in Stellenbosch is not a problem as the town is peppered with stylish eateries, but for authentic Cape cuisine head to Volkskombuis, on the banks of the river Eerste.

If Stellenbosch is the heart of the Cape's winelands, then Franschhoek is its culinary equivalent. The village itself is tiny, perhaps to describe it as a one-street town is more appropriate, but its role in the development of the Cape is significant.

It was here, in 1685, that French Huguenot settlers arrived, escaping the religious persecution of Louis XIV. Granted land in the valley by the Dutch governor Simon van der Stel, they set about building a Protestant life in Franschhoek - which translated means French corner.

Today, against the backdrop of the Simonsberg mountains, with its Victorian wrought-iron facades and polished red verandas, it is sleepy, colonial and genteel, with an unashamed nod towards its primary influence -Provence.

Many of South Africa's best-known wines are produced in the Franschhoek valley, such as Boekenhoutskloof, La Motte, Mreson and Bellingham. But really eating is what the place is all about. The town boasts two of South Africa's top ten restaurants, and prides itself on being the gastronomic capital of the country.

L'Auberge du Quartier Francais is an obvious choice for real foodies. Mentioned in the same breath as Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck in Bray, its chef, Margot Jansen, has picked up a slew of international awards for her inventive menu.

Luxury is the order of the day here. As well as 15 elegant en-suite rooms clustered around a courtyard and swimming pool, there is a private cinema, spa and an army of staff on hand to meet your every whim. For true indulgence there are four suites centred around their own swimming pool, complete with butlers serving such delights as canaps and drinks before dinner.

For wines with more acidity and finesse, head to Hermanus, a small village on the xouthern Cape coast. As well as being home to outstanding vineyards such as Hamilton Russell vineyards, it is also one of the best spots in the world for whale-watching. From our room at the colonial-inspired Ocean Eleven guesthouse, which looked out over Walker Bay, we had a prime view of a pod of southern right whales frolicking in the sea.

Fact file

CAPE TOWN

Will Lyons travelled with Exsus Travel (0131-467 4785, www.exsus.com).

Steenberg Hotel, Steenberg Estate, Constantia Valley, Cape Town (00 27 21 713 2222, www.steenberghotel.com). Rooms start at GBP 236 per night, inclusive of breakfast and tourist tax.

Le Quartier Francais, 16 Huguenot Road, Franschhoek (00 27 21 876 2151, www.lequartier.co.za). Doubles start from GBP 282 a night, including breakfast.

River Manor, Stellenbosch (00 27 21 887 9944, www.rivermanor.co.za). Rooms start at GBP 47 per person per night, including breakfast.

Ocean Eleven, Hermanus (00 27 28 312 1332, www.oceaneleven.co.za). Rooms start at GBP 67 per person per night, including breakfast.

British Airways (0870 850 9 850, www.britishairways.com) offers return flights from London to Cape Town from GBP 600.