Travel: Brittany delivers its own form of Gallic flare

Published on Sunday 17 July 2011 16:44

For summer holiday memories to treasure forever, Northern France offers a less-crowded alternative to the South

WITH its vast stretches of deserted sandy beaches covering more than 700 miles, it is perhaps not surprising that the French have numerous ways of describing the varied coastal landscape of Brittany. The Emerald Coast, the Love Coast and the Pink-Granite coast are just some of the monikers attributed to the bustling harbours and sleepy fishing villages that are dotted throughout this magnificent region of France.

Shuttered country retreats, thatched roofs and sheltered coves provide the perfect setting for a young family desperate to escape the daily grind. The accessibility of Brittany was an important factor for us – a family of four including two young children. Just a two-hour flight from the UK, we could banish the nightmare of a gruelling long-haul journey with disgruntled toddlers asking the inevitable question, "Are we there yet?" The gentle pace of life in Brittany was apparent the minute we stepped off the plane at Nantes airport and collected the hire car with no sign of a queue. And there were only a handful of cars on the motorway as we set off for the two-hour drive to our destination at Trinite sur Mer.

As a French speaker, I was surprised to see many of the road signs written in a language I barely recognised. And as we headed north-west towards Carnac, such places as Kerfraval and Kerdrovras sounded more German than French. They're derived from Brittany's Celtic-based language. Breton is a distinct language, not just a dialect, and is spoken by thousands of mostly older Bretons, particularly in the Finistere. Not only will you come across bilingual radio stations, but it is also taught in the area's schools as a second language.

Visiting in high season, we were amazed to find ourselves the only family on the beach, and wondered why this region was largely untapped. Even at weekends there were never more than half a dozen families sharing the white, pristine sands and we had direct access to the shore from our Keycamp resort at La Baie.

The mobile homes, a stone's throw from the beach, were comfortable and spacious, with each pitch shielded from the next by mature trees, providing privacy and shade from the midday sun.

If you're prepared to pay a little extra you can opt for the "deluxe" accommodation which gives you all mod-cons, including DVD players, covered patios and outside decking with garden furniture.

This particular site was recommended as being tranquil and child-friendly, ideal for younger families, and it didn't disappoint. The outdoor swimming pool offered adult-only sessions early in the morning and late at night, and there is a supervised paddling pool for the little ones. As well as plenty of tourist information on site, the Keycamp reps were always on hand for advice about the area and they provided a welcome reception when we arrived with stacks of luggage and two sleepy children in the early hours.

Having spent the bulk of my summer holidays in the south of France it was with some trepidation that we ventured further north, with its unpredictable climate. Be prepared for a taste of all seasons because the weather is as varied as the landscape – even in early July when we took the trip. On more than one occasion during our week-long stay, we awoke to the sound of the rain crashing against the roof, bringing the prospect of a soggy day. But within a couple of hours the sun streamed through the windows to replace the various shades of grey. Virtually every morning we dressed the children in everything from swimsuits to lightweight fleeces and cagoules, only to find the clouds replaced by brilliant sunshine. In fact, sun cream and sweaters are a must.

If you do fall victim to the weather, the children's clubs on site will provide plenty of indoor activities, such as table tennis, and soft play areas for toddlers. You could also take the kids to the aquarium at Vannes or the nearby Parc de Branfere, an impressive botanical park set in 35 acres.

The local cuisine is another reason to head north, but a word of warning if you're watching your waistline – Brittany is big on cholesterol. The ubiquitous moules frites (a dish of fresh mussels cooked in their shells with white wine and cream served with fries) is addictive.

So too is the Breton butter cake and the traditional Galette – a buckwheat pancake served with savoury or sweet fillings.

There are reminders everywhere throughout the region that Brittany emerged from thousands of years of Celtic history intertwined with the British Isles long before it merged with France. Those echoes of the past are most apparent at Carnac, just a ten-minute drive from our resort. Amid the beaches, bays and harbours on the southwest coast, Carnac is one of the most important prehistoric sites in Europe, home to some of the earliest stone structures. Some 3,000 standing stones, believed to date from around 3,300BC, are aligned over an area of 100 acres and are popular with locals and tourists alike.

Despite its proud history, Brittany has a warm, easy charm. While the French Riviera can guarantee balmy summer sunshine, Paris and the Cote d'Azur are massively over-populated and over-priced. If you have never considered northern France and you are prepared to take a chance on the weather, Brittany is well worth a visit.

THE FACTS

Keycamp offers self- catering holidays to more than 100 parcs across 11 European countries, including Sardinia, Austria and Croatia, plus the USA and 11 parcs in the UK.

Each boasts a choice of stylish mobile homes, chalets, Supertents and treehouse accommodation. Seven nights in August for two adults and up to four children staying in a two-bedroom Villanova mobile home at Keycamp's De La Baie will cost from 676, accommodation only. This includes a special discount of 119. Ferry crossings or fly-drive packages can be arranged though Keycamp at a supplement. For details tel: [phone] or visit www.keycamp.co.uk.

A wide selection of gtes and other self-catering properties in Brittany can be found at www.holidays.scotsman.com/cottages.