Travel: Live in the lap of luxury at Paphos

Published on Friday 24 July 2009 13:38

From the moment I touched down in southern Cyprus, I was whisked into another realm.

Legend has it that Aphrodite, Greek goddess of beauty and love, was born on this Mediterranean island and, so the story goes, her continuing presence brings unremitting sunshine. It's not hard to believe.

I was off to cavort with the Gods - in a junior suite at The Amathus, a hotel perched on the seafront, and a stone's throw from the centre of Paphos.

My room was palatial, with beautiful marble bathroom, minimalist Manhattan-style decor and a private, floodlit plunge-pool.

A welcoming - and welcome - bottle of champagne set the tone, and a bunch of flowers brought some Cypriot warmth to the room, as did a colourful platter of canapes - a hint of indulgences to come.

I spent my first afternoon lazing by the pool along with fellow guests, a mixture of young, old, honeymooners, single travellers and nutty professors.

The sun goes down early in Cyprus - it starts getting cooler at about 5pm, when thoughts turn to spa treatments, or a sundowner to sip on a wicker sofa.

Paphos has a lot to offer, and whether you are there to bask in the sunshine or explore an island steeped in myth and tradition, you will want to venture out.

I began my days like any self-respecting goddess - indulgently. Breakfast on the sun-drenched terrace was, predictably, a feast from the heavens.

But gods must concern themselves with higher matters, and leaving gastronomic delights behind, I made my way deeper into the ancient world.

UNESCO has recently added the whole town of Paphos to its World Heritage list, and not without reason.

In what feels like an open-air museum, the immortal verses of ancient Greek playwrights still resonate.

Once the island's capital, Paphos is now famous for the remains of the Roman Governor's palace, with its strikingly well-preserved mosaics.

My meanderings took me deeper into the ancient world, and through the mass of cultures and religions which have left their variously-shaped footprints.

Cyprus, the third-largest Mediterranean island, is at the crossroads of three continents. The geographical position has, since antiquity, played an important part in its turbulent history, while the influences of Africa, Asia and Europe abound.

At my first stop, the Tombs of the Kings, I felt like I'd been dropped onto the set of some epic fantasy film.

The large necropolis, lying just over a mile north-west of Paphos harbour and carved out of solid rock, dates back to the Hellenistic and early Roman periods. Named for their magnificence, the tombs are open to all and are remarkably untouched - a lack of tourist barriers means visitors can wander at leisure into the caverns, seemingly discovering them for the first time.

From here, I traced the passage of various civilisations through Paphos.

There are many spectacular views from cliff-tops where the ancient Mycenaean Greek settlers built temples to their various gods, giving pride of place to Aphrodite, of course.

One of the most historic sites on the island is the House of Dionysus, a Roman villa dating back to the second century AD. Named after the many representations of the god of wine, the once-private house is thought to have belonged to a wealthy Paphos citizen.

Moving further inland, you can visit prehistoric settlements, classical Greek temples, Roman theatres, Byzantine churches and monasteries.

Tranquil villages are scattered over inland regions, dotted with churches where old traditions and customs have been kept alive.

One trip to the lesser-developed area of Polis in the south was well worth a couple of hours on the road.

The Saint Neophytos Monastery and the Egkleistra - a small cave carved out of the rock face by a hermit in the 12th century - were also must-sees. I could have happily lingered all morning, but onwards, to the Vasilikon Winery, a short trip from the monastery, to see what Dionysus could offer.

Under the guidance of a wine merchant I learned how to decipher the flavours in a selection of Cypriot vintages, enjoying them with some traditional mezze.

And, at the end of such a long day, there is nothing more soothing than slipping back into the cool waters of the Amathus pool or wandering into its spa for an aromatic massage followed, naturally, by a glass of champagne.

Is it possible to have too much of the sights and sounds of Cyprus? Not in three days, and probably not in three lifetimes - this is when it helps to be immortal.

Unfortunately for me, I had a flight to catch: I wasn't born a goddess, after all.

comfort zone: Fontana Deck at Amathus Beach Hotel

Travel facts

Katie Hodge was a guest of Amathus Beach Hotel, Paphos, and Sovereign Holidays which offers seven nights' half-board at the hotel from 1025 from Glasgow (two sharing)

Sovereign reservations: 0871-664 0227 and www.sovereign.com.

Late deals and special offers

Mega Ship Mini Cruise:

Pickncruise (0131-443 0766) has a four-night cruise on the largest cruise ship in the world - Royal Caribbean's Independence Of The Seas leaving Southampton on 29 August with two nights in Cork. Now from 349p/p cruise only or 499p/p with Edinburgh flights/ transfers.

Zakynthos: Direct Holidays (0871-664 7764 www.directholidays.co.uk) has 14 nights from 585 per person staying at the two-star Golden Sun Hotel in Rethymnon, half -board, flying from Edinburgh on 13 August.

Crete:Direct Holidays also has seven nights from 379 at the two-star Cosmi Apartments in Gouves, self-catering, from Edinburgh on 4 August.

RHINE & MOSELLE CRUISE: Depart Edinburgh for Cologne on 1 or 8 August with Cosmos Tourama (0871-423 8636 www.cosmostourama.co.uk). Cruise highlights include Andernach, Cochem, Boppard, Rudesheim, Koblenz, Konigswinter and Cologne. Price of 669 pp -includes return flights, seven nights full board and a tour director.

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EASTERN USA & CANADA: Archers also has a 15-day break exploring seven historic North American cities and the Niagara Falls. Highlights include New York, Boston, Quebec City, Montreal, Ottawa, St. Lawrence Islands National Park, Toronto, Amish House and Farm, Washington DC and Philadelphia. Priced from 1315 to include return flights to New York, 13 nights' room only accommodation, a range of included excursions andtour director. Depart Edinburgh on 23 August.

CAMPING in Scotland: Cobeland, in Gartside, Stirlingshire and Cashel on Loch Lomond, Argyll, both run in partnership with Forest Holidays and within the Forestry Commission Estate. A three-night stay in a pre-erected, fully equipped tent at Cashel arriving on 31 July costs just 155 for up to six people. Some 25 miles from Cashel, a seven-night stay at Cobeland arriving 7 August costs 320 in a six-berth tent. Visit www.eurocamp.co.uk or call 0844-406 0552.

Your guide

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