Start by checking in at the New Hotel La Baume (www.hotel-baume-nimes.federal-hotel.com, double rooms from E180 for two nights), an elegant hotel in a 17th-century townhouse, close to the main attractions.
Friday 8pm Dine at Le Lisita (www.lelisita.com), where Olivier Douet offers a fresh take on local dishes.
Saturday, 9am Take a self-guided tour of Les Arenes, the 2,000-year-old Roman arena that is the city’s historic hub.
10am The Musée des Cultures Taurines celebrates bullfight culture with its displays of posters and glittering matadors’ costumes (www.ville-nimes.fr).
11am Stroll up Boulevard Victor Hugo to Place de la Maison Carrée and the first-century Maison Carrée, the best preserved Roman temple in the world. Across the square is the Carrée d’Art (www.nimes.fr) a cube of glass and steel which houses more than 400 modernist works of art.
Noon Head out of town to another Roman relic, the triple-decker Pont du Gard, which spans the river about 15 miles from Nimes.
8pm Le Cheval Blanc (www.winebar-lechevalblanc.com) with tables overlooking the ancient arena, has a delicious menu – the charcuterie is superb.
Sunday, 10am Visit the Musée des Beaux-Arts (www.ville-nimes.fr) where the key exhibit is a fine Roman mosaic, The Marriage of Admetus.
Noon Lunch at Aux Plaisirs des Halles (www.auxplaisirsdeshalles.com).
2pm Walk to the north end of Avenue Jean Jaures to stroll through the Jardins de la Fontaines.
7pm Dine at Le Bouchon et L’Assiette (www.bouchonetlassiette.com) as a grand gastronomic finale to your weekend.
Monday, 9am Check out.
EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies from Edinburgh to Lyon from around £200 return. Trains from Lyon airport to Nimes (www.voyages-sncf.co.uk) cost from £30 one way.