The Cosmopolitan age

Published on Tuesday 27 November 2007 00:16

THIRTY-FIVE years ago, a new magazine for women hit the newsstands in the UK. It cost 20p, and by lunchtime all 350,000 copies of that first issue had sold out. It featured an interview with Michael Parkinson on "The most beautiful thing a man can do for a woman" (get a vasectomy) and advice on how to turn a man on when he's having problems in bed. Special offers included a "man trap" scent, and there was advice on how to exercise at your desk ("stretch out and pick up paperclips").

Cosmopolitan - known fondly as Cosmo or even "The Bible" to many women - took the nation by storm in 1972 with its mix of fashion, relationships advice and feisty feminism. When the second issue of Cosmopolitan went to press, the print run was upped by 100,000 copies, but still sold out within two days. The magazine now reaches readers in more than 100 countries and has been published in 32 languages. Cover stars have included Elizabeth Taylor and Boy George and everyone in between.

"I remember stealing my mum's copy of Cosmo back in the day," says Kelly Cooper-Barr, 45, a stylist and director of PR and events company Hive. "Now it's seen as just another women's magazine, but back then it was revolutionary. It was strong and opinionated, and wasn't afraid to discuss risqu subjects. It was very cool and if you were seen reading Cosmo then you were seen as a little bit racy!"

But the magazine is arguably no longer the boundary-pushing publication it once was. Where it once challenged gender stereotypes and encouraged women to strive for equality, it now focuses most of its energies on instructing its readers on how to achieve an almost impossibly perfect physical appearance, and idolise celebrities such as Jordan and Victoria Beckham.

Harder-hitting women's issues are still covered but, arguably, in a much more watered-down form. One thing it still famously does, though, is talk frankly about sex...

When it was first launched, Cosmopolitan was truly radical, talking openly about sex from a woman's perspective, and tackled tough feminist issues. Now a new book featuring the best of the magazine's content from the 1970s and 1980s reminds us how men were often quizzed on their take on women's liberation, with the magazine quick to criticise the attitudes of "male chauvinist pigs". One issue even featured a readers' offer for a tie printed with pigs and the initials "MCP" to give to "the man you love to hate".

In the April 1972 issue there was a feature entitled "What I want in a wife" which revealed exactly what celebrity bachelors thought about what made the perfect wife. "I think of an old-fashioned wife who knows her duties. I was once told you choose a wife like you choose a cow - so that there's regular times when she comes in for milking," said fashion designer Michael Fish.

In another feature, entitled "Should men do 'women's work'?" one man commented: "Certainly not. Men should give their orders in firm, clear but kindly tones." Of course, some pieces of advice were less than scientific and their recommendations of questionable efficacy. One feature from the December 1974 issue, "What your legs say about you", tells readers what the way they cross their legs reveals about their personality. And in "20 ways to make him come on strong" it is recommended that women looking to seduce a man should "Amaze him by turning up for a date dressed totally in violet - turban, lipstick, dress, tights, shoes... with undies dyed to match." Others have become pieces of style history: a 1974 feature teaches readers how to "Knit a clingy sweater from only 91p" and "How to cut your own hair" shows you how to give yourself a gamine crop, which can be worn in a "sporty style when brushed back".

However, it is perhaps the advertisements that are most amusing. Ads include one for "Paper Pantees!" which are apparently great for "holidays, away days, off days", one for a "Sauna Suit" and another for a kit that allows you to braid and bead your hair, "the look of the 80s" apparently.

One of the most popular features in Cosmo was, and remains, their near-naked male centrefold. Pioneered by Burt Reynolds in the American version of the magazine, British celebrities soon followed suit, and in the June 1973 issue, a glowering and hirsute Ian McShane appeared wearing only a medallion - with, inexplicably, a Daschund covering his modesty. The accompanying text invites readers to "take a leisurely tour round that muscular torso and inspect those what-are-you-waiting-for eyes".

Despite the unsophisticated advertising, and dated fashions, the features remain relevant, whether they concern equal pay, men and sex or "being on good terms with your vagina". Some of the gutsier features include "Cheers for the Capitalist Feminist" and "Smart girls carry condoms".

"It does make you realise what a relevant brand Cosmo is," says Louise Court, the current editor of Cosmopolitan. "From the beginning the magazine has offered quiet, groundbreaking advice. What's surprised me about this book is that the editorial hasn't really dated. Cosmo is now, as it was then, about feeling empowered, being the best you can be, and having fun in the process. It's a fabulous piece of social history."

• The Best of Cosmopolitan, The 70s and 80s is published by Portico, priced 12.99

SEXIST CHAT TO AVOID (from Cosmopolitan, early 1981)

DO YOU operate a double standard when assessing people? Would you describe a man as "angry" and a woman as "neurotic" for similar behaviour? Here Paul Keers lists some eye-opening sexist verbal traps to sidestep.

• He keeps himself in good shape ... She is a health freak.

• He cooked a fabulous Indian meal ... She just cooked dinner.

• He's got a healthy appetite ... She's greedy.

• He looks casual ... She looks a mess.

• He's a good conversationalist ... She uses too many long words.

• He is persistent ... She nags.

• He is in with the in-crowd ... She is a hanger-on.

• He really has a way with women ... She is a tart.

• He is honest about others' shortcomings ... She bitches.

• He treasures mementoes ... She hordes junk.

• He is with-it ... She is just a trendy.

• He is the life and soul of the party ... She makes a fool of herself.

• He has old flames ... She has ex-lovers.

• He has had a hard day ... She is frigid.

• He has been drinking a lot of beer ... She has got cystitis.

• He lets his emotions show ... She is crying again

• He is managing his finances ... She is penny-pinching.

• He shows driving ambition ... She is pushy.

• He is having a bad time at work ... She is having a breakdown.

• He is outspoken ... She swears like a lorry driver.

• He is intelligent ... She is a bighead.

• He is well-groomed ... She is tarted up to the eyeballs.