Stephen Jardine: When every day showcases a festival of food the sense of celebration can be easily lost

Published on Thursday 4 August 2011 15:52

IN AN age of plenty, when it comes to food and drink, few in this country have to do without.

Thanks to the welfare state, even the poorest families manage to put something on the table. Since the end of rationing, food production and processing in this country have been geared to ensuring we always have enough. In fact, more than enough.

The days of eating being consigned to just homes or restaurants are long gone and now food is everywhere. Despite being filled with great places to eat, this weekend all over Edinburgh, temporary food stops are springing up to feed the hungry hordes here for the Festival.

The Underbelly venue at Bristo Square has probably the best selection, playing host to the brilliant Laughing Stock Food Company.

Serving up everything from eggs benedict to lamb wraps and salt beef from their funky vans, they prove fast street food can still be good food.

Nearby is Andrew McInnes from Porto and Fi, with his fantastic Hog Hut selling rolls brimming with pork, stuffing and apple sauce.

With Edinburgh gallery favourites Ruthvens providing the caf at the Book Festival and Urban Angel and the Oyster Boys all on duty at the new Assembly George Square, avoiding food is more of a problem than finding it in Edinburgh at this time of year.

So spare a thought for Muslim readers who have just started Ramadan. Celebrated in the ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar, this year the four weeks of fasting from dusk to dawn coincide with some of our longest periods of daylight - and the Edinburgh Festival.

Muslims are expected to avoid food and drink until the sun sets to help develop self-restraint and to remind them of the sufferings of the poor.

In Scotland, most Muslim families have their own rituals and traditions built around Ramadan. Islam Mohammed's family opened Edinburgh's first Indian restaurant, Kushi's, back in 1947.

He says: "It is difficult fasting when the days are long as they are at this time of year, but there is a great sense of achievement when you sit down together as a family at dusk to break the fast."

Non-believers might imagine the temptation would be to feast after a day of fast, but Islam says that's not how it works. "We usually have some dates and milk as soon as the sun sets and then maybe something more substantial, but still quite light, small meals.

"By that time of night you're not in the mood for a huge meal and you're also conscious you need to get to bed soon," adds Islam.

Ramadan is intended to be a challenge to temptation, but that must be especially difficult working in the food and drink sector.

Islam and his brothers have just opened the new fine dining restaurant Mithas in Leith, so how do they cope with seeing good food all day but not being able to eat ?

"You grow up with Ramadan and it just becomes part of who you are as a person."You accept it and look forward to breaking the fast at sunset, but other people follow different faiths with separate traditions and we're happy to see them enjoying food." says Islam.

In the Christian Church, fasting has waned in recent times.

Some still restrict eating or drinking during Lent, but giving up video games or smoking is as likely to be the chosen sacrifice.

As a society, perhaps we're just not equipped to do without, any more.

If you think that is the case, you should feel especially sorry for followers of the Orthodox Tewahedo Church who fast for more than 250 days a year.

In fact they're probably doing it right now.