Robin Howie: Walk on the wild side - Glencoe Lochan

Published on Wednesday 10 December 2008 15:17

AS A RESULT OF CLUTCH PROBLEMS with the car, last week's reported trip to Carn an Tuirc turned out to be longer and more expensive than expected.

The following week, with the car still in the garage, Jimbo and I were due to go for a couple of nights to the charming white-walled Blackrock Cottage, the LSCC club hut in Glen Coe; a calendar favourite with Stob Dearg of Buachaille Etive Mor as the backdrop. Drew was to join us for the second day. Jimbo kindly came to collect me for the evening's journey and off we set in defiance of the weather forecast.

The overnight weather continued to day one: gale force winds with a high wind chill factor. Thoughts of bagging a few high tops were easily dismissed and we settled for the comfort and nostalgia of the cottage's coal fire. However, feeling guilty at this sloth by mid morning, we drove down to Glencoe for coffee, a sticky bun and a read of the paper.

The village being partially sheltered from the cold northerly blasts, a short walk became more attractive and that is how we had an unplanned and charming stroll round Glencoe Lochan, nestling beneath the Pap of Glencoe.

Whether fair weather or foul, I strongly recommend a visit to the lochan and its beautiful wooded surroundings.

The following three walks in the vicinity of the lochan are clearly shown on Ordnance Survey map 41, Ben Nevis, Fort William & Glen Coe, yet the map is only required to identify distant views. The notice board map at the start point is sufficient and explanatory.

Go through the old village to Bridge of Coe and turn north on the Tarmac road. At a branch in the road the left fork leads to Glencoe Hospital and ambulance service; the right fork leads to the walkers' car park at map ref 104594 and the notice board.

Glencoe estate was acquired by Lord Strathcona in the late 19th century. Born Donald Alexander Smith, a saddler's son, in Forres in 1820, he emigrated to Canada when he was 18. He rose to become Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, then High Commissioner for Canada.

Wishing to make his Canadian wife more at home in Scotland, he built Glencoe House in 1895 and created Lochan Gleann Chomhann, now known as Glencoe Lochan. The estate woods were bought by the Forestry Commission in 1950 and subsequent plantings and path improvements have helped provide the present sheltered woodland scene. The main lochan trail has a fine surface for wheelchairs, of possible interest to Jimbo's disabled ramblers group.

The Lochan Trail, signposted by red feathers, gives a sheltered and tranquil walk of about one mile round the perimeter. On a still day the reflections of mountain and forest are entrancing. Also starting from the car park is the one and a half mile Woodland Walk, marked by yellow signs, on the south-west side of the lochan. This undulating path round Torr a' Chomhain goes through a variety of coniferous and deciduous woodland with fine examples of Douglas fir and Sequoia and gives good views down Loch Leven. The mile and a half Mountain Walk, marked by blue signs, gives a short, demanding climb by Stuc a' Chomhain on the south-east side of the lochan and at one place with good views to the towering Pap of Glencoe.

Extending our sheltered walk to the maximum, we covered all three trails, some four miles, in well less than two hours. Then it was back to the cottage and the coal fire. Drew was due to arrive about midnight so Jimbo and I chatted away, putting the world to rights, until his arrival.

Some weeks ago I described Drew as being impatient, as only a would-be Munroist can be, to add to his list. He still had Meall a' Bhuiridh to do, a hill recently climbed by Jimbo and I – just follow the line of the ski tows behind the cottage all the way to the summit. However, the weather on our second day was little better so Jimbo and I decided enough was enough. Like a couple of wimps, we headed home, stopping for coffee along the way. Meanwhile, Drew patiently waited to see if the storm would abate. It did and off he set. The weather improved all the while, so much so that he carried on to Creise. Drew put us to shame.

Factfile

Map Ordnance Survey map 41, Ben Nevis, Fort William & Glen Coe

Distance 3 to 4 miles

Height 100m

Terrain Excellent paths all round

Start point Glencoe Lochan car park, map ref 104594, north of Bridge of Coe

Time 2 hours

Nearest village Glencoe

Nearest refreshment spot Caf and crafts shop, Glencoe