Robin Howie: Walk on the wild side

Published on Wednesday 29 July 2009 15:51

THE Falls of Glomach – perfect on a dry day after rain

Even to seasoned hillwalkers the insignificant Gleann Gaorsaic, only four miles long, may not be instantly identifiable. At its southern end is Loch a'Bhealaich, loch of the mountain pass, a charming stretch of water beside the line of an old west/east through-route from Kintail to Glen Affric. The outflow of the loch, the Abhainn Gaorsaic, meanders northwards down the watery glen. The river then changes its name to the Allt a'Ghlomaich and, more importantly, changes its very character as the water speeds up then hurtles over a steep cleft on the southern slopes of Glen Elchaig to join the River Elchaig.

At this stage recognition may dawn for the cascade of water is known as the Falls of Glomach, at 370ft (113m) one of the highest waterfalls in the UK and perhaps the most magnificent. (Eas a'Chuil Aluinn in Sutherland is alleged to be the tallest uninterrupted waterfall, albeit with a lesser volume of water.)

A popular route to the falls starts from the National Trust property at Morvich. On a previous visit by that route I had the worst of all worlds; a dull, damp day that followed a dry spell, thus giving a slippery path yet less of a waterfall. Glomach, an Anglicisation of ghlomaich, means gloomy!

This approach involves a three-mile walk, climbing some 500m to Bealach na Sroine, then a gentle one-mile descent during which you might start to doubt the whereabouts of the Falls, only to be reassured as the Allt a'Ghlomaich appears at the last moment. This signposted route to the falls is peculiar in that it arrives at the top of the waterfall and so it is then necessary to descend, on the west side, to fully appreciate the torrent of water.

Consequently I prefer an approach from Glen Elchaig to the north to see the falls in full flow, albeit still climbing by the water's edge. On a less-than-perfect weather day for the high tops, a visit to the falls will give an enjoyable shorter outing; some three hours if using a bicycle, or five to six hours if walking all the way. Taking a bicycle will save a lot of walking, hence this route is likely to appeal more to younger members of the family. It should be noted that the Falls of Glomach lie in National Trust property so there are no stalking restrictions.

The Falls appear on two Ordnance Survey maps – sheet 25, Glen Carron & Glen Affric, and sheet 33, Loch Alsh & Glen Shiel – however, as the initial approach from Killilan only appears on sheet 25, it would be prudent to take that map.

From the A87, just north of Dornie, follow the minor road on the north side of Loch Long to an estate car park at map ref 941303. It is then a charming five-mile cycle/walk up Glen Elchaig, passing the estate hamlet of Killilan. The first half is on an almost level Tarmac road, with the remainder on a good estate track that eases the undulating 100m climb.

Continue to map ref 009271, just west of the outflow of Loch na Leitreach (if you reach the loch you have gone too far!) where a carved bench is both a marker for the Falls and a convenient resting spot.

Head south, descending slightly on the good path to reach the wooden footbridge over the River Elchaig. The path climbs slightly then crosses to the west bank of the Allt a'Ghlomaich. You can't miss the falls! Take time to admire the gorge but be alert to its obvious dangers … steep, slippery ground with a gentle scramble in places. Particular care should be taken on the return descent.

Rhona, Peter and I passed by on a recent visit, the bench a welcome stop en route to hillwalking further up Glen Elchaig. This was during a dry spell, ideal for hillwalkers no doubt, but not so good for the falls. Even so, the steep cleft was a dramatic feature. It is ironic that the very weather that might keep someone away from the hills actually increases the enjoyment and impact upon coming across the falls. Unlike that earlier visit, the ideal time to see them is on a dryish day that's the first day in weeks to have escaped torrential rain.

FACTFILE

Map Ordnance Survey map 25, Glen Carron & Glen Affric

Distance 12 miles, of which 10 miles can be cycled

Height 350m

Terrain Estate road, track and path

Start point Car park by end of Loch Long road, map ref 941303

Time 5 to 6 hours walking, 3 hours if cycling

Nearest village Dornie

Nearest refreshment spot Dornie Hotel