Robin Howie - Walk on the wild side

Published on Tuesday 3 February 2009 13:47

ONCE the north-western frontier of the Roman Empire, the Antonine Wall, constructed in the AD 140s on the orders of the Emperor Antoninus Pius, straddles the Forth-Clyde isthmus from modern Bo'ness to Old Kilpatrick, although only some 25 miles of the original 37 survive.

The wall – the most important surviving Roman monument in Scotland – was approved in 2008 as a World Heritage Site, becoming, alongside Hadrian's Wall in England and the German Limes, part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage Site. Professor David Breeze, formerly chief inspector of Ancient Monuments for Scotland, prepared the bid for that heritage status and now leads the team implementing the management plan. His book, Edge of Empire: The Antonine Wall, Rome's Scottish Frontier, tells the story of the construction, occupation and then abandonment of the wall, which consists of a rampart and ditch, with the material from the ditch thrown to the north to form an upcast mound. A guided tour is the best way to get to know the wall and I was fortunate to have David as my personal expert.

Historic Scotland looks after nearly five miles of the wall, including much of the unimpeded stretch running from Twechar to Castlecary, which includes two spectacular lengths over Bar Hill and Croy Hill, both sites of Roman forts. The walk took us some three hours, at a gentle stroll.Ordnance Survey map 64 covers the six-mile distance from Croy to Castlecary (including a detour to Bar Hill). However, for a more detailed understanding, I recommend the 1:25000 map and guide published by The Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland (www.rcahms.gov.uk or www.antoninewall.org). This shows the course of the wall on a modern map base, including areas where the wall can be visited. Elements of the archaeology of the monument are highlighted, along with additional information including reading and museums to visit.

It was pleasing to reach the start of this linear walk and return home without recourse to a car. For once, using the train was faster, cheaper and more convenient. We started from Croy railway station, close to Bar Hill, and finished at Castlecary. Just outside the hotel is a bus stop from where a regular service goes to Falkirk's Grahamston station.

Now for the walk. It is a short stroll from Croy station, going north-west on the B802 to map ref 721763, where a signposted lane alongside the wall leads west to Bar Hill. It is a gentle ascent through a lovely wooded area to reach the rounded dome; a magnificent viewpoint over the watery Kelvin valley with the Kilsyth hills as a backdrop. It is easy to appreciate why Bar Hill was chosen as a site for a fort, the highest on the Wall, and why, in more recent times, a trig point was erected. A number of markers identify individual places of interest, such as the headquarters and bath-house.

Return to the B802, crossing the road carefully. Pass a disused quarry and mine workings to reach the next fort, on Croy Hill; again, a well-chosen site and, in my opinion, the most interesting part of the walk. At this stage, one can imagine hearing Roman legionnaires patrolling the wall, but wonder why it takes a more direct line rather than following closer to the sharp edge above the Kelvin valley. A more direct wall saved effort, time and money and the west brow of Croy Hill holds "expansions", possibly beacon-platforms giving advance warning of those coming from the north.)

It should be noted that there is still a lot of work to be done by the relevant bodies concerned. The wall is not overly provided with signposts and improvements to the pathway are required in some areas (take sensible footwear). North of Dullatur, reference to the map may be needed. After one short section of road, pass under the railway to regain the wall which continues eastwards on the north side of a golf course, then an airport. A tree-lined way, with a few fences to cross, then leads past an industrial estate to reach the village of Castlecary ... and a convenient hotel.FactfileMap Ordnance Survey map 64, Glasgow, Motherwell & Airdrie

Distance 6 miles

Height 200m

Terrain Road, track and path, the latter rough and wet in places

Start point Croy railway station

Time 3 to 4 hours

Nearest town Castlecary

Nearest refreshment spot Castlecary Hotel