Review: Wild Sorrel, 21 Old Fishmarket Close, 0131-226 5959

Published on Friday 14 November 2008 13:36

JAMES Stocks is a fortunate young man. Head chef at Balbirnie House in Fife, he appeared to have the world at his feet with fantastic reviews, a handful of awards and the promise of television work. Not bad for a twenty five year old.

But that world came crashing down around him with such force, he was left reeling and obliged to quit the job he loved.

Veering from the truth to list such culinary mentors as the Roux brothers and Marco Pierre White on his CV had done him no favours and the media had a field day deconstructing exaggerated claims of his background and training.

What's really sad about this sorry mess is that Stocks is a fine chef and should have had enough confidence and drive to get to the top without damaging his honesty and integrity.

Several troubled months down the line and after a sincere public apology, he's hoping for another chance to prove that he is indeed gifted and visionary and more than capable of winning the Michelin star he covets.

Such is his passion to realise this dream, he has sunk every bit of cash he has into Wild Sorrel, a split level restaurant situated at the foot of a steep lane just off the Royal Mile.

But no amount of enthusiasm or rhetoric will fill your restaurant unless the food is good and this is - spectacularly so, from the medley of pre-starters like horseradish macaroon with beef or sea bass with rhubarb foam, which hits the palate like a flurry of gentle clouds vying for attention, to a final listing calorie busting sweet treats, created for maximum temptation.

In between, choose from intros like pork with langoustine, sweetbreads and black pudding salad or red mullet and lovage foam, served with a light salsify and artichoke salad.

Or if you prefer, dive straight into the mains, as we did, and take your pick from cannelloni stuffed with lobster, dressed with an apple and vanilla transparency and the merest hint of mango.

You might, though, like the sound of cheek of beef tortellini, paired with brisket, celery and marrow.

Or perhaps, like my veggie friend, you would be swayed by chef's creamy risotto, layered with white truffles and finished with a delicate veil of langoustine foam.

My own preference was for succulent slices of duck drizzled with raisin jus and paired with lentils and potato pure and as a quirky little extra, a doll-size donut, filled with an Earl Grey-infused mousse.

So much creativity had gone into this one dish that if it were to be marked on balance of textures and flavours, it couldn't fail to be awarded a high score.

Add to that, points for presentation, and you have a contemporary classic that makes a statement on all levels.

I would have chosen cheese to round everything off but the intriguing sounding pistachio macaroon had my name on it. What I loved about this was the texture – light and not too dense, however, the accompanying, similarly flavoured sorbet, which sounded a great addition on paper, didn't quite work on the plate, and left me slightly disappointed.

The mini-tarte tatin across the table had a fantastically light pastry base, with substantial slices of apple fanned into the round, giving it a more rustic, earthy look, rather the the finer classic version.

This is quite a simple affair but you really can't take your eye off the crucial stage during cooking when the apple transforms into soft, caramelised heaven. If you do, even for a few seconds, you risk the flavour slipping from sweet to bitter. Unfortunately, that's exactly what happened here and that leaves me wondering why this didn't come to light in the kitchen.

There's a statement from Stocks on Wild Sorrel's website, which includes a transcript he claims comes from Marco Pierre White and a rather unbelievably raw comment as to why White may have denied all knowledge of him.

Psychoanalysts wouldn't hesitate in describing his deep trauma as an earth-shattering event. Yes, admittedly, it's one of his own making but I reckon he deserves another chance to get his career back on track.

Stocks is a fortunate young man, only this time, wiser, less blas and more reflective, he has vowed to keep tight- lipped and let his cooking do the talking.

Wild Sorrel

21 Old Fishmarket Close, 0131-226 5959

The bill

2 x two-course lunch 28

2 x Martini 7.60

1 coffee 2.20

TOTAL: 37.80

Quality ****

Menu choice ****

Surroundings ***

Service ****

Value ****