Restaurant review: Spoon Cafe Bistro, Edinburgh

Published on Friday 27 November 2009 16:15

If you fancy a bit of light reading, there's plenty of material in this new eatery. "Stop staring," said my little sister, Louisa, as I studied the seventies magazine cuttings that feature as decoupage on much of the seating in this warehouse-esque space. I was, however, transfixed – who knew that Esther Rantzen was such a hottie back in the day, or that Terry Wogan's hair has remained unruffled for over three decades?

This kitsch decor theme is a clue to the informality of this trendy place, which is the sister establishment to Spoon Cafe on Blackfriars Street (the owners of which also provide the catering for the Scottish Storytelling Centre). According to popular folklore, an earlier incarnation of this space was where JK Rowling penned the first Harry Potter book – although, mercifully, the new management here haven't milked this fact for all it's worth.

So, instead of a potential food list featuring Muggle's milkshakes and Hogwart's hamburgers, there's a menu of affordable bistro fare. From this, junior went for the rather geriatric choice of pressed ox tongue (3.95), while I as granny senior opted for potted mackerel (4.15).

My choice, I think, was the winner, as I was presented with a crunchy doorstop, a pat of butter and a pot of a smooth-textured fishy spread. With a squeeze of lemon over the top, this was the perfect cockle-warming treat. Louisa, however, was less happy with her option, which consisted of two hefty slabs of meat that were sprinkled with crystals of sea salt. Her complaint? "It's too tonguey." Considering she's usually one of the few fans of this offally offering, I can only guess that the problem was the massive portion.

On to mains and, while someone's 40th birthday balloons were blown up at the table opposite, my sibling ordered hake stew (9.95) and I went for the pork cutlet (12.95). Again, Louisa was somewhat underwhelmed by her course. It consisted of a mixture of fish cubes, squid hoops, borlotti beans and peppers, which were doused in a tomato sauce. "A bit bland," she said. "I give it five out of ten."

My main was rated slightly higher. The pork cutlet, which was resplendent in a plaid check (courtesy of the chargrill) was juicy, with caramelised fat along its extremities. It was reclining on a bed of crisp chicory leaves, with a chilli, pesto and lemon dressing drizzled over the top. The only negative element of this course, therefore, was that the billed baby potatoes turned out to be four laughably titchy discs of tattie.

Still, minimal carbs means more space for pud, and I had my eye on the plum fool (3.95), while my wee sis fancied the hot chocolate fondant (4.95). We already had an inkling that the desserts would be good, after spotting the tempting-looking strawberry tart, colourful cupcakes and head-sized scones that were piled high on the front counter. And, as anticipated, my sister's pud was spot-on, with a firm texture that contrasted with an oozing centre of warm molten chocolate.

Meanwhile, my fool (no, not junior) consisted of a thick layer of stewed plum, which was topped with a creamy mousse. The pices de rsistance, however, were two fluffy and light homemade langues des chats – the spongey finger biscuits that were popular as a trifle ingredient in bygone days. These were criss-crossed over the top. When we told the waitress how much we loved these treats, she gave us some more to take away in a goodie bag.

This leads me to the fact that, while I enjoyed poring over the chairs (and the inside of the toilet cubicle doors, if that's not too much information), I didn't read the bill properly. I've accidentally cheated the bistro out of the price of a bottle of Vetriano Pinot Grigio (14.75), which they'd forgotten to add.

Note to Spoon Cafe Bistro: Sorry about that, I will return to reimburse you (and could someone put aside a large-ish slice of the strawberry tart?).

Spoon Cafe Bistro

6a Nicolson Street, Edinburgh (0131 557 4567)

www.spooncafe.co.uk

How much? Dinner for two excluding drinks 42.90