Restaurant review: Portavadie Marina, Loch Fyne

Published on Friday 18 September 2009 11:23

THE restaurant at Portavadie Marina is unexpected. In fact, the whole complex at Portavadie is something of a surprise, being a good-sized marina, a few miles from Tighnabruaich on the Cowal Peninsula.

The ferry from Cowal to Tarbert on Kintyre goes from just outside the marina, but unless you are en route from one peninsula to another, it is unlikely you would find yourself here.

At least that is the case if you are a landlubber, because this part of the west coast is a famous sailing area. On the opposite side of Loch Fyne is Tarbert, which hosts the Scottish Series, one of the biggest events in the world sailing calendar. So perhaps opening an upmarket restaurant here is not such a mad idea after all.

The restaurant is housed in a very beautiful modern building. You eat upstairs, overlooking the marina with views of Loch Fyne beyond.

When we came to order our late lunch, there were no scallop starters left, which will teach me to turn up at a seafood restaurant at 3pm on a Sunday, so I chose the potted crab, with mace butter and toasted sourdough bread (5.75). It turned out to be delicately flavoured, deftly seasoned and beautifully presented. I scraped up every last flake of crab meat.

My other half had local smoked salmon with onion and capers (6.95), which was more robust but a delicious combination.

My daughter turned down a starter, saving herself for her main course, but my son couldn't wait any longer and ordered the soup of the day, which was carrot and coriander and only 1 because it was a children's portion.

For her main course my daughter selected Loch Fyne mussels mariniere with crusty bread (8.50). Her mussels were fresh and juicy and the fries (2.50) were chunky and perfect for dipping in the juice at the bottom of the pan. My son plumped for chicken and chips (3.95).

During the ordering process my husband's eye had been caught by the Loch Fyne seafood salad of langoustines, steamed mussels and scallops, garlic and herb butter and lemon (18). While negotiating a sharing policy I opted for turf alongside his surf and went for a char-grilled steak sandwich, toasted ciabatta, fried onions, mushrooms and roast tomatoes (11).

Described as a salad, I somehow thought his seafood dish would be cold, but instead it was filled with steaming mussels, a heap of juicy little langoustines that were – bliss – already shelled, and barely cooked opaque scallops.

My steak was tender, flavoursome and grilled to a turn, but I was somewhat distracted by the garlicky buttery fragrances coming from my left.

All the sea air during the walk on the beach had left us with an appetite for pudding. My son couldn't believe that the fabled Knickerbocker Glory (3.95) actually existed, and wasn't disappointed when it arrived. His more reserved sister went for homemade chocolate ice-cream (3.95) which was a little too dark and rich for her tastes. My other half had a splendid apple pie (4.95), and the Crannachan cheesecake (4.95) was a great invention; not one I'd tried before. A plate of Scottish cheese, including crowdie and Kyles of Bute Cheddar, pear and Arran mustard chutney and oatcakes (4.50) was a good last word.

We finished our wine; a lovely sharp lemony Picpoul de Pinet (16.50) and walked off our substantial lunch around the marina, deciding which million-pound yacht we would buy when our ship came in.

The restaurant at the Portavadie Marina will certainly attract sailors. That it has already started to attract customers who have to come by a rather precarious car journey is a testament to its fabulous location and great food.

Three to try

The Three Chimneys

Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye

(01470 511258, www.threechimneys.co.uk)

This is an iconic Scottish restaurant, with breathtaking vistas of Loch Dunvegan to match its multi-award winning food.

Orocco Pier

17 High Street, South Queensferry (0870 118 1664, www.oroccopier.co.uk)

Find this by the water's edge in South Queensferry with great views of the bridges. The food is Scottish through to Asian fusion.

The Waterside Restaurant

19 Ness Bank, Inverness (01463 233065, www.thewatersideinverness.co.uk)

Beautiful conservatory overlooking the River Ness. Food is innovative/traditional.