Restaurant review: Abode, Glasgow

Published on Friday 10 July 2009 12:37

DESPITE the plethora of awards out there, winning Best Restaurant in Scotland in any category is a great achievement – and one worth investigating. Especially, it has to be said, because so many eyebrows were raised (to the point of disappearing off the top of foreheads) when Abode in Glasgow was declared the finest restaurant in the nation at a recent awards dinner.

I have to admit that my own monobrow was one of those that reacted in Roger Moore fashion, because the last time I was in the place – more than two years ago – I was underwhelmed by the fare on offer. But leaving aside an irrational but deep-seated prejudice against restaurants that trade on the names of chefs who rarely, if ever, work in their kitchens (Abode's Sunday name is Michael Caines @ Abode, after the Michelin-starred chef and proprietor of Gidleigh Park, in Devon), it was clear that the restaurant was struggling to justify its top-end prices and suffering by comparison with the nearby Chardon D'Or.

That, though, was when Martin Donnelly, who has worked with both Caines and Gordon Ramsay, was at the helm. Since then, local boy Craig Dunn has been elevated to the position of executive chef, and over the past year or so has been making something of a splash, most recently by winning the Restaurant Chef of the Year award at the Scottish Chef Awards. So many gongs… It was time to find out what all the fuss is about.

On the face of it, little about the smart city-centre sandstone terrace that houses Abode has changed since my last visit. The funny little entrance area remains mildly claustrophobic, with echoes of my dentist's waiting room. But once you're past that, the smart interior still has the comfortable opulence that always defined it, with big Adrian Murchie watercolours covering the walls and a neat blend of contemporary furniture and period detail.

This time around, however, the food was a definite step up from what we ate on my last visit. That much was obvious from the amuse bouche, a rabbit rillette that was heavily seasoned with dill and accompanied by dill pesto, and which was served at room temperature. It wasn't a revelatory dish but it had been produced with a skill that far surpassed mere competence.

All three starters were equally impressive. That said, my spring-roll-sized stick of cannelloni filled with crab was nicely conceived but verging on bland, a fate it was saved from by a spiced apple pure and some tangy langoustine foam (what is it with this renewed obsession with foam?). There was, however, no need for caveats with Alistair's confit of salmon with spinach and parmesan tortellini, herb pure and lavender cream, which was a creamy mlange of fishy majesty. Maureen's scallops with chicken wing, sweetcorn pure and foam (yawn) was the best of the lot, the scallops and the dark meat of the chicken proving to be a fantastic combination.

Our main courses showed a barely perceptible drop in quality, mainly because Maureen's sirloin of beef failed to pass muster. In fairness, it was the beef itself that was a little tough and sinewy, and no amount of cooking or well-intentioned embellishments – it came with a concentrated prune pure, rosti, wild mushrooms and a gorgeously rich Madeira sauce – could redress the balance.

My pork fillet, which was superbly tender, came with langoustines, truffle gnocchi, pea and mint, and langoustine foam (yep, it did), and was by far the best of the bunch. Not only did the surf 'n' turf combination work nicely, but all the details were faultless too: the peas were perfectly al dente and the gnocchi the least cloying I have tasted for many years.

Alistair's succulent poached sea bass with roasted sweetbreads, celeriac pure and chicken jus made for an interesting combination – one I thought was perhaps slightly ill-conceived, but which turned out to be a nicely meshed combination of contradictory tastes that he would happily choose again.

If the meal had a glaring weakness, it was in the puddings. Alistair's rhubarb and vanilla tart with rhubarb jelly was disappointingly run-of-the-mill, though at least it was enlivened by an excellent confit ginger ice-cream. My kirsch parfait – basically poached cherries – served with a fairly ordinary pistachio ice-cream and cherry espuma (that'll be foam to you and me), was hugely disappointing. Not even a cherry fiend like me would go back for a second helping.

That, though, was a rare bum note in a meal that was very good, even if it didn't qualify as great. I may not have felt as if I was eating at the best restaurant in the country, but Dunn has made huge strides in such a short time. With a good, reasonably priced wine list, decent service (though they had clearly clocked me) and a sumptuous environment, there's much to recommend Abode.

vital statistics

Abode

129 Bath Street, Glasgow (0141 221 6789, www.abodehotels.co.uk)

Out of pocket

Starters 10.50-12.95 Main courses 19.50-23 Puddings 7.50 Six-course tasting menu 55

Rating 8.5