Recipes: Five ways with... Kale

Published on Friday 29 January 2010 14:36

KALE is a Scottish word derived from the Greek coles and Roman caulis.

It is used to describe any of the cabbage-like group of plants and has played such an important part in our diet that by the 19th century "kail" was used as a generic term for dinner. Every Scots kitchen had a kail pot and access to a kail yard, and until the 18th century it was virtually the only locally cultivated vegetable that the vast majority of the population had access to.

Indeed, kale was the most common vegetable in the whole of Europe until the middle ages. And as it turns out, it would have been hard to choose a more nutritious vegetable. Kale is higher in protein than any other cultivated vegetable and is extremely rich in vitamins and minerals, particularly beta carotene, vitamins K, A, C and E, lutein, calcium, iron, manganese and potassium, and it also contains powerful antioxidants.

The vegetable is also a great ingredient for seasonal eaters as it is one of the few greens that is more abundant and flavourful during the coldest months of the year. It actually tastes sweeter when exposed to frost, so is perfect for Scottish weather, and virtually never falls victim to pests or disease. It can be substituted for cabbage or spinach and makes a fine side dish when blanched and sauted with garlic.

Kale should have a fresh green colour with moist, crisp, unwilted leaves. Young, small-leaved specimens are more tender, with bigger leaves more suited for use in soups. Keep it in a plastic bag in the fridge – but bear in mind that it becomes increasingly bitter and strongly flavoured the longer it is kept, so is best eaten soon after buying. Give it a good wash to remove any dirt. Very small and tender stems can be cooked with the leaves, but thicker ones that are also tender can be cut off and cooked for a minute or two before adding the leaves. Very thick, tough stalks should be discarded.

With a relatively low moisture content, kale does not shrink as much as other greens and requires a longer cooking time. Except when the veg is very young, it is not great if undercooked and should be served soft rather than al dente. Steam, simmer or saut gently for several minutes, until thoroughly tender.

1 Asian-style kale 350g kale; 3 tsp sesame oil; 1 shallot, minced; 2 garlic cloves, minced; 2 spring onions, minced; 1cm fresh ginger, peeled and grated; 1 tbsp soy sauce; 1 tbsp sesame seeds, lightly toasted

Prepare the kale and chop roughly, then steam for five minutes. Heat the sesame oil in a wok over a medium heat, add the shallot, garlic, spring onions and ginger and cook for a minute to release the aromas. Add the kale and stir-fry for four minutes. Remove from the heat and add the soy sauce. Serve hot, sprinkled with the sesame seeds to garnish.

2 Roasted kale 450g kale; 12 tbsp olive oil; 1 tsp Maldon sea salt

Wash and trim the kale, keeping the leaves intact as far as possible. Toss with the olive oil. Roast in one layer in an oven preheated to 190C/375F/gas mark 5 for five minutes. Turn the kale over, then roast for a further five to ten minutes, until the kale turns brown (but don't burn) and becomes paper-thin and brittle. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with sea salt and serve immediately.

3 Bean and kale soup 200g dried white beans; 2 onions, finely chopped; 2 tsp garlic, minced; 1 tbsp olive oil; 1 celery stalk, chopped; 1 carrot, finely diced; 2 tomatoes, diced; 1.5 litres vegetable stock; 150g fresh kale, chopped; 1 tsp salt; 1 tbsp dry sherry; 1 tbsp fresh parsley, minced

Place the beans in a large bowl, cover with cold water and soak overnight. Drain and set aside. In a large pot over a medium-high heat, saut the onions and garlic in the oil for five minutes, stirring frequently to prevent browning. Add the celery, carrots and tomatoes, then continue to saut, stirring frequently, for five minutes, adding small amounts of stock if the mixture begins to dry out. Add the remaining stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, add the soaked beans, cover and simmer for 90 minutes, or until the beans are tender. Add the kale, cover the pot and simmer for another five minutes. Turn off the heat and season with salt, sherry and parsley. Stir well and serve.

4 Saag 125g butter; 2 tsp cumin seeds; 1 green chilli, seeded and diced; 2 garlic cloves, chopped; 2 tbsp ground turmeric; 500g kale, chopped; 500g spinach, chopped; 1 tsp ground cumin; 1 tsp ground coriander; 1 tsp salt

Melt the butter in a saut pan over a medium heat and cook the cumin seeds, chilli, garlic and turmeric for two minutes. Stir in the chopped kale and then the spinach a little at a time, adding any tougher parts first, until all the greens have been added and are thoroughly wilted. Stir in the cumin, coriander and salt. Cover, then reduce the heat and simmer until the greens are tender – about ten minutes – adding water as needed to keep the moist.

For saag aloo, add 250g of just-cooked diced potatoes. For saag gobi, add 250g of steamed cauliflower florets. For saag gobi aloo, add both. Include these additions just before the ground spices and proceed as above.

5 Kale with pancetta 1kg kale; 100g pancetta, cut into 1cm pieces; 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped; 250ml water

Wash and trim the kale and chop finely. Cook the bacon in a wide saut pan, which has a lid, stirring occasionally until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen roll. Fry the garlic in the remaining oil over a low heat for a minute without burning. Add the kale and cook, turning with tongs until wilted. Add the water and cook for five to ten minutes, partially covered. Toss with the bacon and season with salt and pepper to taste.

&#149 This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday, January 31, 2010