Paul's got the latest recipe for success

Published on Friday 24 April 2009 09:52

'GO on, tell her. What's in our kitchen cupboards?"

Paul Kitching relaxes next to his long-term partner Katie O'Brien on a settee in a city-centre hotel.

She is looking at him knowingly, smiling during the silence that ensues.

He's just made a jaw-dropping revelation, admitting that despite being an award-winning chef – hailed by Gordon Ramsay as one of the nation's very best – he refuses to cook at home.

And what is more astonishing, he and Katie have not used their kitchen since the day they bought their house 10 years ago.

"Our kitchen cupboards are filled with my military memorabilia," Paul smiles. "I have lots of figures associated with the American Civil War, as well as books, and that's where they are kept."

After years of working in restaurants up and down the country – as well as the Michelin stared Juniper near Manchester for 12 years – the chef admits he simply cannot face home-cooking.

And now, with the couple's 4.5 million restaurant 21212 soon to open on the city's Royal Terrace, they are refusing to add a kitchen to the luxury basement apartment they are to make their home, beneath the restaurant.

"Honestly, I refuse to cook at home," says Paul, 48, originally a Gateshead labourer. "I hate cooking in domestic kitchens because I'm used to professional ones and I hate having food in the house.

"All we have is a fridge for beers, and lots of plastic cups, and we just eat out, or at the restaurant."

After explaining that his military figures are now boxed away, Kitching brims with enthusiasm at the thought of unpacking them in his new home in the Capital, a Georgian town house that he jokes will soon be his own "castle". A fan of all-things military, he admits he is a massive supporter of the Tattoo, an event he has attended for five years in a row. He is so enthusiastic about the spectacular that he often attends several nights in a row.

Despite moving into a temporary flat in Edinburgh last summer, the chef and Katie, 41, – who is also his long-term business partner and restaurant manager – are only just bringing their possessions up from their old home in Chester, near Manchester, which is in the process of being sold.

And the pair cannot hide their enthusiasm for the move, insisting that the idea of living in the Capital has been a long-held dream.

"I feel like I've died and gone to Scottish heaven," laughs Kitching.

They have certainly given up a lot to make it north of the border – an award-winning restaurant for a start, not to mention a loyal customer base who would frequently travel hundreds of miles from London to dine at Juniper, in Altrincham, on the outskirts of Manchester.

But Paul, renowned for his unique cooking combinations – he once famously served a "toothpaste 'n' mouthwash desert" comprising egg whites, strawberry coulis, crme de menthe and Andrews liver salts – wanted a greater challenge.

"We discussed London, but only very briefly. The main thing is to be happy and I don't think we would be down there."

The story of their eagerly-anticipated move to Edinburgh, which is keeping industry critics on their toes, began seven years ago when the pair began to travel to the Capital to see their friend Simon Preston, who was then involved with the Harvey Nichols restaurant.

"We had no reason to believe that anything would change," Katie says. "But then we began to think that for our careers, something would have to happen with Juniper – we had gone as far as we could go with it, due to its size and location."

So with the backing of their business colleagues Alan Revie, chief executive of National Tyres and Autocare, and his wife Joan, they worked on a plan to move to Edinburgh to start a new restaurant.

"Alan said to me one day, 'In an ideal world, where would you go?' I said I would like to live in Edinburgh and I would like a restaurant with a few bedrooms," smiles Katie.

The pair closed Juniper last April – Paul has not cooked since – and have been working constantly to make their dream a reality.

21212 opens to the public on May 20, boasting a luxurious 38-seat restaurant, private dining area, lounge and four immaculate bedrooms, along with a beautiful basement apartment for the couple to make their dream Edinburgh home – minus any kitchen, of course.

At the moment, the property is very much a work in progress, with contractors from across the UK working tirelessly to complete the building in time for May 4, when Paul and Katie will open up to staff for a week-long practice.

The pair have also worked with their design team to ensure that it feels modern, incorporating the kitchen into the main restaurant, with diners able to see the chef at work through a glass partition.

Revealing the plans for the building, there is no question that the pair have a very definite idea of what they are doing.

But what will Edinburgh make of 21212, a restaurant that charges 60 per person for a five-course meal, opening at a time when family budgets are more stretched than ever before?

The pair certainly hope it will be even more successful than Juniper, hope that Paul's undoubted culinary skills and attention to detail will see the restaurant attain a Michelin star.

And because of the size, location and amount of available Scottish produce Paul is confident he can enhance his unique, modern French cooking style.

Despite this, the project has caused Kitching a few concerns.

"My biggest fear is that people may think this isn't a restaurant for them – that it is a rip-off or too stuffy," Paul says. "It's not like that though. If people want to come to our restaurant in their jeans and T-shirt that's great. We just want them to enjoy themselves."

But why is the restaurant called 21212? The answer – long sought by restaurant critics and journalists – reflects its menu, made up of two starters, a soup, two main courses, a cheese board and a pair of desserts.

"Yip, the cat's definitely out of the bag with that one," Paul laughs.

STAR-STUDDED

PAUL KITCHING is already famous for being awarded a Michelin star for his Juniper restaurant in Greater Manchester.

He hopes to continue his success with his latest venture – 21212 at 3 Royal Terrace.

Chefs across Edinburgh who have also earned the award include Tony Borthwick, owner of the Plumed Horse in Leith. The restaurant was awarded the star in January.

He is joined by Tom Kitchin, owner of The Kitchin, right, also in Leith. Tom and his wife Michaela opened the restaurant in 2006, gaining their star in January 2007.

Number One at The Balmoral is also on the Michelin star list, owing to the talents of chef Jeff Bland, who has also helped the restaurant win a number of industry awards.

Martin Wishart also has a Michelin star, awarded in 2001, for his self-titled restaurant, left, which opened at The Shore in 1999.

Michelin awards stars to a limited number of restaurants every January, reflecting, "what's on the plate and only what's on the plate".

Chefs are scrutinised on a range of levels, including the quality of their ingredients and their creativity.