News bites: culinary gossip from the capital’s kitchens

Published on 16/08/2012 22:19

Pierre Levicky, who founded the Pierre Victoire chain, is offering set meals for two served on a tray at new venue Passepartout at 5/7 Old Fleshmarket Close.

The menu has plundered the world’s spice markets to produce a line-up in which curried lamb rubs shoulders with whole, roasted and spiced fish, or Thai-style curries and mussels cooked with ginger and spring onion. Levicky, who also runs Chez Jules in the city centre and Pierre Victoire on Eyre Place, is keen for customers to forsake knives and forks in favour of using their hands. According to Passepartout’s promo blurb, this is because “not eating with your hands is like making love through an interpreter”. Steamy stuff. 
0131-629 0252

FOUNTAIN OF COUTH

On Dundee Street out West, almost opposite the Fountain Park complex, the Fountain Bar has shrugged off its previous unreconstructed persona and re-emerged as a rather hip bar diner. The mix ‘n’ match decor is complemented by a wide selection of Scottish and global draught and bottled beers, while the food menu is thoroughly “posh pub”. Think langoustine fish pie and rib-eye steaks. 
• thefountainbar.co.uk

HAPPY HOME

Never one to rest on their laurels, Anna and Mike Christopherson, the Swedish couple behind the transformation of many a dingy Leith bar, have taken over The Tun on Holyrood Road. Now called Hemma, Swedish for home, the place is rewriting the definition of a bar. Of course, they still serve lovely beer but how many other pubs run regular poetry nights and jogging sessions? 
• bodabar.com

LOVELY BUBBLY

Delightful as the Royal Mile is during the Festival, it can occasionally be refreshing to gain respite from the flyers, fire-breathers and am-dram students. Give thanks then for the Pommery Champagne Bar which has again taken up residence in The Signet Library until 27 August. It may be mayhem outside but inside there’s just the murmur of happy chat punctuated by the gentle hiss of another cork eased free.

• thesignetlibrary.co.uk

MICHELIN FRYERS

The dates hadn’t been confirmed at the time of writing but this summer sees the launch of two restaurants by Michelin-starred brothers Chris, left, and Jeff Galvin in the Caley. Now called The Caledonian, A Waldorf Astoria hotel, the Edinburgh landmark will host The Pompadour by Galvin and the more casual Galvin Brasserie de Luxe. Expect top notch, local ingredients and classic French cooking. The brasserie is said to feature an eye-catching crustacean. 
• bar.waldorfastoria.com

SPIRITED CHEF

Michael Neave is the ambitious young chef who has put his name above the door of his own restaurant on Old Fishmarket Close. The Michael Neave Kitchen and Whisky Bar uses Scottish produce to produce modern European dishes. We’re talking along the lines of breast of corn-fed chicken with a mushroom and truffle linguini or the crayfish ravioli with a crab bisque. The location just off the Royal Mile and the decent whisky list should stand the venture in good stead, particularly at the moment. 
• michaelneave.com

WOODEN HEART

Assuming that everything has gone to schedule, then the Radford family’s new Timberyard restaurant on Lady Lawson Street should be open by now. Having formerly run the Atrium and blu, the Radfords’ Timberyard aims to be at the heart of Edinburgh’s ethical restaurant scene. Think small, local, artisan producers; foraged ingredients and both an on-site veg patch and smokehouse. 
• timberyard.co