Mull and Arran: Away with the ferries

Published on Wednesday 19 August 2009 14:47

THE challenge: to ex-plore the Highlands by bike without sacrificing luxury at the end of a long, hard day in the saddle.

First the practicalities. Embarking on a week of cycling requires more than remembering to pack padded shorts and midge-repellent spray. We were heading for Mull, and the terrific Highland Cottage hotel and restaurant in Tobermory. This was to be followed by a tour down the stunning Kintyre peninsula, en route to Arran.

But first came the matter of how to get ourselves, and our bikes, to Oban, the point of departure for the Mull ferry. We had travelled from London, but for most cycling Scots, their journey will begin in earnest at Glasgow Queen Street station, where three trains a day depart for Oban (two on Sundays).

Glorious weather meant we were not alone in loading our bikes on to the train. Most mountain bikers disembarked near Loch Lomond; those with touring bikes and stuffed panniers made the full three-hour trip to Oban. The Scotrail service was impressively well equipped for cyclists: every second carriage had a "porch" area reserved for six bikes, which are ingeniously hung vertically by their wheels to maximise storage capacity (and minimise hassle to other passengers).

The idea for the Mull to Arran cycle had come to me as a way of making up for lost opportunities during childhood. An aunt lived on Arran for years and we rarely visited. But the determining factor was the existence of a National Cycle Route (No 78) from Oban to Campbeltown, which we could follow as far south as Claonaig, from where we could catch a frequent ferry to Lochranza on the north of Arran. A Google search had thrown up a newspaper review suggesting that Route 78 was as memorable a cycle ride as they come, and so it proved – it is hard to recall Scotland ever looking so beautiful. Nor had I experienced a more perfect way to explore one's homeland than this carefully plotted route by Sustrans, the exemplary national cycling charity.

We had decided to take our own bikes, experience having taught me that renting is neither as cost-effective nor clever as imagined – the bikes are rarely as good as your own, and not as familiar.

After overnighting in Oban (having rejected a later afternoon crossing to Mull in preference to a short cycle to Connell Bridge to stretch our legs), we boarded a packed CalMac ferry to Craignure. The June sunshine had attracted hundreds of tourists to make the crossing, many in their cars, bound no doubt for Iona. Then the cycling began in earnest.

The direct route from Craignure to Tobermory is 21 miles, on a good but busy road. We diverted instead through the heart of the island – but, boy, did that final switchback climb from Dervaig to Tobermory test us. It felt like our bike panniers were loaded with lead, something that even the easiest of my bike's 24 gears was unable to alter. Never was there a more welcome sight than that of Highland Cottage as we entered Tobermory from the west.

Set high above the harbour, Highland Cottage is run by David and Jo Currie. They opened it in April 1998. Just as the Three Chimneys dominates the culinary landscape around Skye, so too does Highland Cottage around Mull. And it has had its famous guests: Sir Jackie Stewart has stayed here, and a thank-you card from Lord (George) Robertson, in his days as Nato secretary-general, adorns the walls.

Our room was better described as cosy rather than small: beautifully appointed, within the confines of an old building, with the added touches of an iPod docking station and complimentary sweets and fruit going down a treat as we unwound after the day's cycle. Throughout the hill-climbs and the picnic lunch, we had driven ourselves on with the thought of the dinner awaiting us that evening. It did not disappoint. Asparagus with crayfish tails was the pick of the starters; scallops and Aberdeen Angus fillet steak were our chosen mains, and a white chocolate and raspberry pot was as good a dessert as I've ever tasted.

The culinary standard was maintained the following night. That day, we had built our appetites by hiking to Ardmore, the northern point of the island, where we snoozed by the sea in the afternoon sun. The weather was so glorious that the supermarket in Tobermory had sold out of sunscreen.

In common with the previous night, the courses were interspersed with different but delicious amuses-bouche (minted pea veloute being a highlight). A twice-baked goats cheese souffl was the standout starter, while a roast halibut fillet showed Jo's skill at matching flavours to a beautiful piece of fish. For dessert, my other half plumped – for the second night running – for a mint meringue with strawberries. David explained that Jo had chanced upon the idea for the dessert after having egg whites left over from making crme brle, and it was a masterstroke. If the purrs of pleasure coming from the other side of the dining table were any guide, Jo should copyright it as Highland Cottage's signature dish.

The restaurant sources many of its ingredients locally, either from Mull, nearby mainland suppliers or specialists in Glasgow. Scallops, crabs, mussels and prawns are caught in the waters around the island, while the white fish typically comes from Mallaig. Beef, venison and lamb are supplied from dealers in and around Fort William. The hotel promotes itself as a fine-dining restaurant with luxury rooms, rather than being a hotel for breaks with small children. None of its six bedrooms is set up as a family room, though it was happy to accommodate a couple with a young child on our second night.

Our brief stay in Tobermory concluded the next morning when it was time to hit the road again. We averaged about 40 miles a day over the next four days, heading back to Oban and then on down Route 78.

Highlights were Glen Lonan (the former last route of kings heading for burial in Iona) and Inverliever Forest on the western banks of Loch Awe.

Our staging posts for overnight stays were Kilchrenan (where we chanced upon a super-friendly B&B, Collaig House, run by Julie and Jamie Beamish and which could have featured in Channel 4's Grand Designs), Lochgilphead and finally Lamlash, on the Isle of Arran (where a new B&B, Stonewater House, set up by Mark and Rachel Wren, is recommended).

Finally it was time for another CalMac ferry, this time to Ardrossan, before we retraced our steps to Glasgow Central and the Virgin train back to London. Weary but inspired by the natural beauty on our doorstep, we vowed to make the bike-train holiday an annual event. sm

Factfile: Mull and Arran

How to get there

• Rail travel from Glasgow to Oban starts from 19.40. Tel: [phone], visit www.scotrail.co.uk

• Ferry journeys start at 4.55. Tel: [phone], visit www.calmac.co.uk

Where to stay

• Bed and breakfast at Highland Cottage, Tobermory starts at 150. Dinner is 45. Tel: [phone], see www.highlandcottage.co.uk

And there's more

• A double room at Collaig House, Kilchrenan costs 80 a night. Tel: [phone], see www.collaig-house.co.uk

• A double room at Stonewater House, Shore Road, Lamlash costs 70 a night. Tel: [phone], visit www.stonewaterhouse.co.uk

• Visit www.sustrans.co.uk for more information about cycling in the UK.

• Scotsman Reader Holidays (www.holidays.scotsman.com) offer various Scottish breaks.