Mediterranean taste ensures Scots fishing industry is squids-in

Published on Monday 7 April 2008 23:01

FOR years it was an exotic dish eaten mostly by holidaymakers in the Mediterranean. But as Britons become more experimental in the kitchen, squid is fast becoming a fashionable ingredient.

The amount of squid sold in the UK is soaring and fisherman in the Moray Firth are finding an increasing demand for their seasonal catch, according to fishing body Seafish.

The growing popularity of a Mediterranean diet – in which squid is cut into rings and fried – has seen celebrity chefs such as Rick Stein encouraging more use of the cephalopod in seafood dishes.

Industry monitoring body Seafish say changing tastes have seen sales increase by 53.8 per cent in value last year – and that the UK market is now worth 4.5 million a year. Last year, 517,000kg of squid was sold in the UK – an increase of 70 per cent.

As well as calamari, the creature features in a Spanish dish, Calamares en su tinta, served in its ink, or grilled and stuffed with cheese in Croatia. It is also popular in Asian cuisine.

Yesterday, Tom Kitchin, the Michelin-starred chef, said Scottish squid in season was a key ingredient in his Edinburgh restaurant The Kitchin, and works well with white meats.

He said: "My restaurant has been going for 18 months and I have had squid on the menu from day one. It is a good fish and it can be used in so many different ways.

"If I am cooking turbot, I will use squid as part of the dish and it also goes well with white meat, in dishes with rabbit or chicken."

He added: "People don't realise it is caught in Scottish waters. Fishermen have been exporting squid to Spain and Paris and only now have they started to realise (the market] is on our doorstep."

Tia Millar, director of Fishers and The Shore restaurants in Edinburgh, said that squid was popular in salads with her customers.

She said: "It is one of those things we have always used. It is wonderful in salads and Mediterranean dishes, and it combines very well with chorizo. As the price of filleted fish goes up, it is an ingredient that is less expensive than other ingredients – like scallops, for example."

Carina Norris, a nutritionist from Fife, said squid was naturally high in protein and low in fat, and was a good source of selenium, phosphorus, zinc and vitamin B12. She added: "I'm all for people increasing the variety of their diet and if it is local, it is going to be really fresh. The problem would be if you dipped it in batter and deep fried it, but if you lightly stir-fry, it would be really healthy."

The boom has seen Seafish commission scientists at Aberdeen University to study how the UK can help sustain and make the most of the squid catch in the UK. Researchers have used an underwater video camera to film the creatures' behaviour in the vicinity of trawls.

The research will be published later this year but early indications suggest the populations are abundant.

Squid, which are only fished over an eight-week period in the summer months, live for just a year, which means there is less danger of stock depleting as demand grows.

Sandy Patience, vice-chairman of the Fishermen's Association, said fishermen in the Moray Firth first started noticing larger quantities of squid a few years ago.

He explained: "The water temperature is changing. Around eight years ago, we started to see baby squid. The following year, the numbers had grown and there was a good catch.

"To begin with, there would be very little sold in his country – but now some of the restaurants are being more adventurous."

Philip MacMullen, head of environment at Seafish, said studying catching methods and behaviour would help sustain stocks as popularity grows.

He said: "Consumer tastes are changing as confidence in cooking with a much wider range of seafood grows. Squid is now being fished off the coast of the UK in summer, so it is great to see people enjoying fish from local waters."

FAVOURITE AROUND THE WORLD

IN ITALY, Turkey and Greece squid rings are coated in batter and fried in oil.

Squid has long been a favourite ingredient in Spanish cooking, where it is served with lemon juice and garlic mayonnaise.

In the Philippines, squid is served in a sauce made with squid ink and fresh chillies.

Korean restaurants feature tanks full of live squid, which can be killed, cleaned, cooked and brought to the table in minutes.

Croatian cooks serve their squid grilled and stuffed with cheese.

A popular Chinese dish is fried baby squid, served with rice.

Spaghetti al Nero is a classic pasta dish coloured with squid ink.

Dried and shredded squid is sold in packets in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Japan.

Squid is a common ingredient in sushi and sashimi. In Japan and Korea, salted squid is left to ferment for a month and served as a bar snack.

FROM THE SEA TO THE TABLE

RISOTTO OF SQUID WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

From Carlo Coxon, The Grain Store Restaurant, Edinburgh

FINELY chop one large shallot and saut in olive oil with thyme leaves until soft, but not coloured.

Add eight tablespoons of risotto rice, stir until coated. Add 100ml dry white wine, stir and reduce. Add hot fish stock or hot water a ladle at a time, reducing each time until the rice is al dente (approx 15 minutes).

Throw in a good handful of shaved parmesan and 100g of diced unsalted butter and beat together. Add a tablespoon of chopped parsley just before serving.

In a hot pan heat olive oil and butter then add 200g of thinly sliced baby squid and cook for one minute, tossing occasionally.

Add one tablespoon of chopped shallot and two tablespoons of balsamic vinegar and toss.

Serve the squid on top of the risotto and garnish with parmesan and rocket or wild garlic leaves.