Kings and queenies

Published on Monday 5 September 2005 15:51

IN THE 1970s, scallops were served in their shells as indeterminate piscine blobs surrounded with piped mashed potato. In the 1980s, the shells were mainly used as ashtrays. Now, though, scallops are seen in all the best places - home fridges, restaurant kitchens and, of course, on the fishmonger's slab.

Their appearance in fish shops, although not new, has only relatively recently become less of a novelty. Over the past couple of decades, scallops have gradually gained in popularity. Perhaps this is because we are more confident about asking the fishmonger to open and clean them for us. Or perhaps we appreciate how incredibly easy it is to do ourselves: simply wedge in a sharp knife against the flat edge and take it straight across, so that you scrape the scallop off the shell. Then, under running cold water, remove the frilly membrane from the white flesh and its attached coral, which is the roe. Discard the black intestine and cut off the small shiny muscle (which makes the shell open). Rinse it well and pat dry.

If, however, hands-on is not for you, and you prefer to buy scallops already opened, look for firm white flesh with a bright pinky-orange coral. Avoid frozen scallops if at all possible, as these invariably have a very high ice content. This means that, although they look large, once defrosted you can end up with just over half the original weight of scallop flesh. Frozen scallops also tend to stick to the pan and shrivel up as they cook.

Whether you choose king scallops, with shells up to six inches in diameter, queen scallops, about half the size, or tiny princess scallops, it is essential not to cook them for too long, as the delicate flesh will toughen. The best way to cook scallops is to grill, fry or poach them for no more than a couple of minutes. They are then best served with a simple sauce such as lemongrass and chilli, or basil and tomato. Other options are to top them with orange and thyme butter or brush them with ginger syrup (from a jar of stem ginger) before grilling, or fry them in sesame or walnut oil. Serve the scallops on top of a mound of garlicky hummus or buttery savoy cabbage.

The main thing to remember for any scallop recipe is never to overcook them: three decades ago, those mash-ringed shells contained tough, chewy pieces of flesh, hidden under a mantle of globby white sauce. With such noble fruits of the sea, that is nothing but sacrilege.

All recipes serve two to three people

SCALLOPS IN OATMEAL

6 plump fresh scallops, trimmed and with the corals cut off

1 medium free-range egg, beaten

75g medium oatmeal

25g butter

olive oil

Dip the scallops in the egg, then coat in oatmeal. Chill for an hour or so, and then re-dip in egg and re-coat in oatmeal. Again, leave them to chill.

Remove the scallops from the fridge 15 to 20 minutes before you cook them, to let them reach room temperature.

Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan until medium hot, then fry the scallops until just done: two to three minutes on each side. Serve them piping hot, with a dollop of salsa verde and good bread.

SCALLOP AND BLACK PUDDING SALAD AND RED PEPPER SAUCE

This is adapted from a recipe from a buzzing new Edinburgh restaurant, The Snug, in Stockbridge.

olive oil

2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

3 red peppers, seeded and sliced

6 thin slices Stornoway black pudding

2-3 sticks celery, diced

1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped

6 scallops

mixed salad leaves

1 granny smith apple, sliced

Heat three tablespoons of oil in a pan. Add the garlic and peppers and cook gently, covered, for about 15 minutes. Leave the peppers to cool, then liquidise them and season to taste.

Grill the black pudding until it is crispy. Saut the celery and dill for two to three minutes in a little oil, then season with salt. Remove from the pan and keep warm. Now heat the pan to high and lightly oil it. Add the scallops and cook for a couple of minutes on each side.

Arrange the salad leaves on large plates and lay on the apple slices. Top each of these with a slice of black pudding and then a scallop. Sprinkle over the celery and dill, and then drizzle with some red pepper sauce. Season with black pepper and serve.

MEXICAN CEVICHE OF SCALLOPS

6 large, fresh scallops

juice of 2 limes (2 tbsp)

2 tsp freshly grated ginger

3 plum tomatoes, diced

1 large avocado, peeled and diced

4 spring onions, finely chopped

2 tbsp coriander, chopped

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice

lettuce

blue corn tortilla chips

First cut the scallops thinly into about four slices (remove the coral if you prefer). Place in a non-metallic bowl with the lime juice and the ginger. Stir gently and leave to marinate at room temperature for 25 to 30 minutes.

Combine the remaining ingredients and season with plenty of salt and pepper.

Drain the liquid from the scallops and discard it. Add the scallops to the tomato mixture and turn gently, taking care not to break up the scallops.

Place a bed of lettuce in a shallow bowl, then tip the scallop mixture on top. (This dish can now be kept, loosely covered, for about an hour.) Serve with a large bowl of blue corn tortilla chips.