John Gibson: A medal for Daniel in his Leith den

Published on Wednesday 11 February 2009 09:07

YOU'D think Charlie de Gaulle himself had presented the gong to Daniel Wencker. In fact it was a "Pillar of Leith" silver medal, recognition of the contribution he and his waterside bistro, Daniel's, have made to the port.

Charles couldn't be there on the big night at South Leith Church but the kirk's minister Ian Gilmour did the honours and Daniel, native of Strasbourg and an Edinburgher by adoption since the early Seventies, was so chuffed he's having the award fancy-framed and displayed in the bistro window.

His place, longest established of this cluster of eateries, is doing well, seemingly oblivious to the Crunch. "We cater for all social categories, including the rich like yourself. The 'Pillars' presentation to a whole host of people was in itself confirmation that Leith is a close-knit community."

Knitted so close that Daniel's manager these past ten years Alison Guillonneau is married to the head chef Denis and sommelier/head waiter Angelo has been there 12 years, from day one.

A fellow medallist, my bond with Monsieur Wencker is closer now. "That's Moroccan-style lamb casserole you're eating. The French Foreign Legion went to war on something roughly similar."

He'll be wearing a kepi next and singing I'll Join the Legion, la Josef Locke. Josef who? Ask your grandad. He'll have the key.

Foreign tongue

Gael farce. Should we, the non-Gaelic speakers among us, be at all surprised? The BBC, having squandered 15 million creating a Gaelic TV channel in September, pandering to the 55,000 (and rapidly falling) who speak a language utterly foreign to you and me, are taking more flak than Bomber Command took over Berlin.

The audience zonked from 610,000 in its first four weeks to 400,000 in November/December. Considerably less than two-thirds of viewers remained at the last count.

One suspects BBC Glasgow, where the Gaelic infiltration seems to be rife as ever, had a heavy hand in this heedrumhodrum telly.

In the passing . . . I can't believe the BBC without a blush blew 65k of your money on Christmas parties. Oh yes I can! What more can I say, other than bin your litter.