Jason puts his cards on the table

Published on Thursday 6 March 2008 18:05

IN a previous incarnation, The Stockbridge Restaurant in St Stephen Street was a tarot-reading centre.

Which is a very apt antecedent for this award-winning basement restaurant, whose future success should be rosy, if my recent experience is any guide.

Set amid the antique shops, jewellery workshops, private galleries, boutiques and upmarket gift and design outlets that characterise the old street, Jason Gallagher and Jane Walker's eaterie sits like a welcoming Aladin's cave.

Once down the stone steps and through the French windows entrance, you find yourself in a theatrically painted cavern of black walls, which serve to highlight the vibrantly coloured paintings of the Scottish Colourist school of Cadell and Peploe (1900-1930, I am informed).

Gilt mirrors reflect the clever lighting well and background music adds to the ambience.

On the night of my visit two friendly and efficient waitresses, one Scottish, one from South Africa, expertly manoeuvre between the four occupied tables (well it was Tuesday) after inviting me to take my pick from among the 30-plus covers.

A trio of American tourists, a young couple and a mother and son are my fellow diners for the evening, and everyone is impressed, it seems.

First decision is the wine list, and a bottle of Cable Bay 2006 New Zealand sauvignon blanc from Marlborough proves a good choice.

Turning away from the set-meal menu (two courses 18.95, three 21.95), I go a la carte and fancy the look of the pigeon breast starter.

While I await delivery (was it a carrier pigeon?) an amuse bouche arrives in the form of an espresso coffee cup of creamy wild mushroom soup, to accompany the home made honey bread.

Suitably amused, I watch the pigeon land, pink and delicious in a red onion marmalade and port wine jus.

Around me, the Americans are being giving a fair and helpful tourists' guide to Edinburgh's other fine restaurants by our friendly local font of knowledge.

As the MOR sounds from the speakers take a more bluesy turn, my main course arrives, and straight away I can foretell that my future enjoyment is assured.

The fillet of wild halibut is meaty and perfect, with a light lemony tang. And to add the contrast in flavours and texture, it sits beside an artful display of oyster mushrooms and pancetta with spinach and accompabied by a slice of hash brown potato, topped by a quail's egg.

Despite a dreary incipient spring cold, the flavours come through loud and clear and delightfully balanced.

The menu changes regularly, depending on supplies and chef's whims. I had fancied the look of the Arctic char advertised on the railings outside, but that had swum off.

Instead I could have picked from rainbow trout with brandade and avruga caviar, Gressingham duck breast, Buccleuch beef with wild mushrooms or a vegetarian option of aubergine and walnut gateau with baked goats cheese.

Prices range from 4.95 for starters to a top-price 25.95 for the beef, while a bottle of house white can be had for a very reasonable 13.50.

It has been three and a half years since self-taught South African chef Jason – who has worked at the Bonham Hotel and with Martin Irons in Leith – and partner Jane bought the business from Juliette Lawrence Wilson.

Since then they have won the Edinburgh Restaurateurs Society gold award and still found time to have a baby.

They have clearly been dealt some good cards.

THE BILL

&#149 Spiced pigeon breast 6.95

&#149 Fillet of wild halibut 19.95

&#149 Bottle of Cable Bay, New Zealand sauvignon blanc 2006 22.95

TOTAL: 49.85

Quality ****

Menu choice ***

Surroundings ****

Service ****

Value ***

&#149 The Stockbridge Restaurant, 54 St Stephen Street, Tues-Sat, 0131-226 6766