It's only natural

Published on 13/07/2003 01:00

Fifteen years ago, people made organic wine because they genuinely wanted to provide a healthier alternative to what was on the market. Unfortunately, in many cases quality was not part of the equation, and customers preferred the much better-tasting non-organic varieties.

But a lot has changed since then. By the mid-1990s some stunning organic wines were gracing the shelves. These days, with supermarkets having made "organic" such a powerful branding tool, even the most hard-headed wine producers are taking on board its ethos. Now there are concerns within the industry that the laws relating to organic production in some countries are so relaxed that their wines would not be certified by the Soil Association, which oversees organic production here in the UK. In other words, in the opinion of our food and drink producers, the playing field is not level.

So the serious organic producers have moved on and have started labelling their wine as "biodynamic". This certification guarantees that only natural sprays for pests and soil enrichment are used. Biodynamic growers follow the theories of Rudolph Steiner about the relationship between soil, air and the cosmos. For example, horn dung must be sprayed on the vine leaves at sunrise, while other operations can only occur when the moon is full.

Witchcraft? Well, some of France’s most sought-after wines are produced by following these rules. The most famous is Domaine Leroy from Burgundy, with top wines costing as much as 800 a bottle. It’s obviously doing something right. Next week: biodynamic reds

1997 Clos de Cray, Organic, Montlouis Mousseux, France, Alc 13%, 50cl, 6.99

Similar to a lighter-style Sauterne from Bordeaux, this delivers a honeyed sweetness integrated with refreshing moreish acidity. **** Call 0161 908 1314 for your nearest supplier

2000 Carmen Nativa, Organic, Chardonnay Maipo Valley, Chile, Alc 14%, 8.99

An excellent summer sipper. Pineapple aromas overwhelm the nose and the palate harmonises these with toasty French oak. **** Oddbins

1998 Vom Stein, Riesling, Biodynamic, Federspiel, Nikolaihof, Austria, Alc 11.5%, 12.50

A dry riesling with a sweet-and-sour finish that justifies the price. **** Raeburn Fine Wines

2000 Domaine Begude, Biodynamic, Chardonnay, Limoux, France, Alc 13.5%, 10.49

Well worth the money. If you like white burgundy and enjoy flavours of oatmeal, subtle apricots and sophisticated French oak, you’ll be impressed. ***** Oddbins

2001 Terra Organic, Chenin Blanc, Mendoza, Argentina, Alc 14%, 4.99

Don’t bother. Very poor, with bitter notes dominating the palate and finish. * Somerfield

2002 Chateau Miraval, Organic, Coteaux Varois, France, Alc 13.8%, 8.50

Not a gusher. Tasting it blind, you’d think it was a white from central Italy. It’s clean and fresh, with subtly threaded flavours of ripe apples. **** Call 020 7928 7300 for suppliers