It's fast, but does haste mean taste?

Published on Friday 7 July 2006 12:56

AS much as those health experts and food connoisseurs lament that fast food - or as some like to term it "junk food" - is bad for us, sometimes only the sinful will do.

Hands up how many of us have greedily gobbled up a quarter pounder cheese meal with large fries after a night out, succumbed to a Happy Meal mid-shopping spree, or ran into the local chippie for a fish supper after work when the thought of cooking just doesn't appeal? And yes, that's knowing full well the calories, fat content and sometimes less than fresh and pure ingredients . . .

With the schools out for summer and the Capital's children needing entertained - and fed - chances are the fast-food joints in the city are going to get even more busy with families treating their little ones to a meal or two.

But are they any good? Or would the quality of fast food available in Edinburgh's high street make a true food expert see red?

Malcolm Duck, chairman of the Edinburgh Restaurateurs Association and owner of the renowned New Town restaurant Duck's at Le March Noir and Ducks at Aberlady, has loved fresh, flavoursome food and quality ingredients all his life. His idea of fast food is a quickly rustled up salad, bowl of soup or home-made prime Scottish beef burger - not a burger and chips from a fast-food chain.

But as a father of two, he does occasionally take his children there. He says: "I think there's a place for everything in society, and while I personally don't like these fast-food chains - I'd be in the wrong job if I did - there are some people who do.

"If you're going for fast food, it should still come back to fresh food - that wins everyday. If there's goodness in there you're on to a winner as it will fill you up longer and you'll feel satisfied. Otherwise, you've wasted your money. And fast food should be seen as a rare treat, not a regular occurrence."

So we took Malcolm and his eight-year-old son Og around some of the city's most popular fast-food chains, persuaded him to sample some of the most popular choices and asked him which ones cut the fast-food mustard.

AS much as those health experts and food connoisseurs lament that fast food - or as some like to term it "junk food" - is bad for us, sometimes only the sinful will do.

Hands up how many of us have greedily gobbled up a quarter pounder cheese meal with large fries after a night out, succumbed to a Happy Meal mid-shopping spree, or ran into the local chippie for a fish supper after work when the thought of cooking just doesn't appeal? And yes, that's knowing full well the calories, fat content and sometimes less than fresh and pure ingredients . . .

With the schools out for summer and the Capital's children needing entertained - and fed - chances are the fast-food joints in the city are going to get even more busy with families treating their little ones to a meal or two.

But are they any good? Or would the quality of fast food available in Edinburgh's high street make a true food expert see red?

Malcolm Duck, chairman of the Edinburgh Restaurateurs Association and owner of the renowned New Town restaurant Duck's at Le March Noir and Ducks at Aberlady, has loved fresh, flavoursome food and quality ingredients all his life. His idea of fast food is a quickly rustled up salad, bowl of soup or home-made prime Scottish beef burger - not a burger and chips from a fast-food chain.

But as a father of two, he does occasionally take his children there. He says: "I think there's a place for everything in society, and while I personally don't like these fast-food chains - I'd be in the wrong job if I did - there are some people who do.

"If you're going for fast food, it should still come back to fresh food - that wins every day. If there's goodness in there you're on to a winner as it will fill you up longer and you'll feel satisfied. Otherwise, you've wasted your money. And fast food should be seen as a rare treat, not a regular occurrence."

So we took Malcolm and his eight-year-old son Og around some of the city's most popular fast-food chains, persuaded him to sample some of the most popular choices and asked him which ones cut the fast-food mustard.

BURGER KING

Princes Street

It claims to be, well, the king of burgers, and with 11,220 restaurants in 61 countries worldwide, Burger King must be doing something right.

According to Og, it's the crispy, crunchy chips that he can't stop munching. "I really like these," he says. "They're lovely and crispy. I don't like lots of salt and these have none."

Malcolm agrees. "They are classic and simple. You can taste that they were frozen though. But they're unsalted so that's good for parents and gives diners the option to salt their own food."

The hamburger and cheeseburger, however, cause some disagreement. "It's quite good," says Og, tucking in. "I don't know what I like about it - it just tastes good."

Malcolm adds: "There is a nice simplicity in the presentation but it's a basic bap, thin, tasteless burger and the cheese burger has this gooey, plastic cheese. There is strong flavouring which is masking a lack of taste. This is what people are really tasting.

"For me, it's fill food. You'd come here after a night out or something.

"The burger is inexpensive but when they start charging 15p for that tiny slice of plastic cheese it doesn't represent value for money. This is where they make a profit."

Hamburger: 84p

Cheeseburger: 99p

Large fries: 1.29

Total: 3.12

VERDICT: More a fast-food knave than a king, a lowly 2.5/5

McDONALD'S

South St Andrew Street

According to their website, 2.5 million Brits pay McDonald's a visit every day. That's a lot of burgers. And fries. And ice-cream. But what does Malcolm and his son think?

"They are quite primary burgers," admits Malcolm of both the hamburger and cheeseburger.

"It's a primary taste too. There's a lot less cheese here compared with Burger King and an even thinner burger. I can't quite believe how thin it is. This can't be satisfying.

"It's bloody awful to be honest and doesn't taste as good as Burger King - which wasn't fantastic. And that bap is cheap and plastic. For a few more pence they could have produced a better quality product."

Og agrees. "I don't really like it that much. I'd eat it, but I wouldn't choose it.

"It's got lots of nice tomato ketchup though. But that's to mask the fact that the burger doesn't taste of anything."

And the fries don't fare any better. "They are much less crispy and much more salty," admits Malcolm. "I could nibble away at Burger King fries but not these."

What does the chip-loving Og think? "The Burger King ones are better. These are a bit soggy, really salty and thinner than the others."

Hamburger: 69p

Cheeseburger: 79p

Large fries: 1.19

Total: 2.67

VERDICT: Unlike the fat and calorie content, a big, fat 0/5

SUBWAY

Hanover Street

This American sandwich store sells foot-long toasted and cold sandwiches, salads and wraps by the truck-load in 25,000 outlets in 80 countries. It boasts that it's a "fresh and great tasting alternative to other options," and both Malcolm and Og agree.

"The bread is very good, tastes fresh although I reckon it's par-bake, the meatballs are very good - spicy but tasty - and the option of building your own sandwich and choosing which salad options and sauces you want is good," says Malcolm of his meatball marinara sub sandwich.

"Plus, here there are fresh foods. You can add fresh salad to your sandwich so there's goodness in there and you'll be more satisfied.

"This is really a step up. It's very good. There's a lot more going on with the food and it wasn't horribly expensive. I'd come here with the kids as a treat."

Which suits Og. "I really like it. It would be even better if it was less spicy, but it's really nice."

Six-inch Meatball Marinara: 2.79p

VERDICT: A more sub-stantial 3.5/5

KFC

Nicolson Street

For those who love chicken, KFC should be their idea of heaven. Og is already a fan, and when his mum and dad will allow, comes for a treat. However, this time around, something has gone wrong . . .

"It doesn't taste as good," says Og. "I can't explain why, but something's not right. And those chips taste of nothing."

Malcolm is equally shocked. "The chicken fillet sandwich is dry and wizened, and I'm sure there's something wrong with it. It's bloody awful. The batter on the fillet looks knackered and the chicken is dry. The chicken strips are far better, much more moist and succulent. The chicken is not from the fillet [burger] batch."

He adds: "We usually opt for chicken drumsticks and wings here as you're getting moist chicken inside the batter. Plus, you know exactly what you're eating... if you know what I mean."

Mini fillet burger: 99p

Crispy chicken strips meal with fries and water: 3.59

Total: 4.58

VERDICT: Not so finger lickin' good 1/5

FISH & CHIPS

Franco's in Raeburn Place

When it comes to fast food, grabbing a hot, steaming portion of fish and chips is top of many people's lists, especially Malcolm's. "This is in a whole different league," he says, when tasting the meal. "The fish is fresh, the batter is crisp and comes away easily from the fish. And the fish tastes good - like real food. This fish is really good. Look at the chips too. They are proper chips, fresh and full of flavour."

Og is equally impressed, devouring the fish and chips. "I really like it. Those chips look funny - they're all different shapes and sizes unlike the Burger King, McDonald's and KFC ones. Does that mean they're fresh?

"They taste really good anyway, and are more filling. And the fish is nice too."

Malcolm adds: "Now this represents good value for money. It's fresh and you can taste that, it's filling and it's fast food. It shouldn't be part of a staple diet - but now and again is fine."

Fish supper: 4.50

VERDICT: A perfect 5/5