Travel: Lithuania

Here in Scotland, we like to tell tourists that they won't see two more contrasting major cities as close together as Edinburgh and Glasgow.

It seems that we perhaps now have a new rival; Vilnius and Kaunas in Lithuania.

In its 20 years since winning independence from the Soviet Union, Lithuania has grown and prospered into a strong and proud country that has been influenced by the west but is still strongly aware of its not-too-distant history. The relative weakness of its national currency, the Lita, makes it a very affordable destination, but unlike some of its Baltic neighbours, it has not yet been besieged by stag and hen party revellers - and you get the impression that Lithuanians see themselves as offering a somewhat more sophisticated tourism experience than that.

But its two main cities - separated only by around 60 miles - have taken slightly different paths as they attempt to build a potentially lucrative tourism sector.

Of the two, Vilnius has probably advanced much quicker. Visit the capital and you will find a growing city with the confidence and swagger of a proud European centre.

Its old town - a UNESCO world heritage site - is nothing short of magical; meandering streets bursting full of character, small shops, galleries, intimate bars and a diverse range of restaurants. Hours can be spent admiring some of the Baroque architecture - while the city centre's masterpiece is the gracious St Anne's Church.

But if you want to see Vilnius at its best, it is advisable to up the pace a little from the leisurely stroll and get up high.

Climbing the 78 spiral steps of Gediminas Castle - towering above the city with the national flag proudly flying on top - is a must in order to enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the whole city.

With its open green spaces and culture, Vilnius is also a romantic city. Taking a walk to the Uzupis district - a bohemian area for the city's artistic types that declared itself an independent republic on April Fools Day 1997 and now has its own president, currency and flag - you will cross a bridge that is, bizarrely, covered in padlocks engraved with the names of couples who have declared their love for one another.

No visit to Vilnius could be complete without a trip to the chilling former KGB prison - now the Museum of Genocide Victims - where the cells, water torture chamber, interrogation room and execution chamber remain as they were and give a gruesome insight into an all-too-recent part of the history of Europe.

There is little doubt that Vilnius is the jewel in Lithuania's crown and - reachable by a three hour flight from Edinburgh to Kaunas Airport then a short one hour bus rise - it can easily make an enjoyable weekend city break on its own.

But for those with more time to spend, Lithuania has much more to offer than just its capital.

Kaunas - the second city - is not as multicultural as Vilnius: the vast

majority of its citizens were born in Lithuania. But that means the visitor will receive a more authentically Lithuanian welcome.

You really feel the community atmosphere when you visit Kaunas. Events that bring people together, such as festivals and street performance, seem to always be happening. And with a wide selection of good pubs and restaurants, there are plenty of places to socialise and meet the locals.

The people of Kaunas do enjoy a drink and a visit to the Stumbras distillery shows they quite enjoy making alcohol too. Visitors can tour the distillery, learn about 100 years of production and taste some of the company's wide range of products, including the smooth Stumbras vodka and the many different coloured variations of 999, or "Three Nines" - an unusual spirit that gets its name because it contains 27 different herbs and spices.

The distillery - and generous tasting session - is well worth the visit, although the desire of Kaunas people to make their own alcohol can be seen in the city's bars and restaurants - many of which produce their own variations of that traditional home brew favourite, moonshine.

Lithuanian food tends to be fairly heavy - generous meaty portions, thick sauces and potatoes or veg feature among many wholesome meals on most menus.

The more adventurous can try some of the more traditional appertifs that are on offer in some eateries; pigs ears - an unusual and somewhat plastic-tasting experience - are regularly enjoyed as a side dish, while you get the impression that pigs brains - which have the appearance and texture of oysters with an alarming hint of bacon - are possibly only brought out for the daring tourists.

Kaunas is a city where it is easy to sightsee on foot - and strolling around the city you can stumble across some remarkable buildings, especially the churches. What is different between Kaunas and Vilnius is that, in Kaunas, you can find a real hotch-potch of architecture; stunning older buildings next to somewhat less attractive, more modern buildings or dilapidated ruins. The variety is unusual, but interesting nonetheless.

It seems that what Kaunas is best for is its food, bars and music. When you add a good selection of hotels, it makes it an ideal base from which to explore Lithuania.

Trakai is a magical small town around 30 miles away, and features a stunning red brick Gothic castle on an island in the middle of a lake.

On a pleasant day, few places could be better for those wanting to relax away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Any visit can be topped off with a trip to the fantastic Kybynlar restaurant, which offers traditional cuisine from the Karaims - the smallest ethnic group in Lithuania, who enjoy a variety of pastries not too dissimilar to a Cornish pasty.

Another day outing from Kaunas is Birstonas, a beautiful small spa town in acres of lush greenery and woodland. Its mineral water is said to have real health-giving properties and is used widely for bathing and drinking on the spa resort.

Those who want to drink it, however, have to have a strong stomach. Good health doesn't come easily, it appears. One treatment well worth trying is the mud therapy, where you are covered from head to toe in mud that has the distinct aroma of the area's mineral water and which can really refresh the tired and weary tourist.

Spa weekends including accommodation can be booked for the kind of price you would expect to pay for a couple of treatments in an afternoon spa session in the UK.

Lithuania is a diverse and changing country. Younger people who live there appear to be at ease with the growing westernised way of life, which is leaving the country's Soviet past behind.

It is something of a hidden gem in Europe and there is no question that Vilnius has the potential - with the addition of more direct flights - to become a major tourist destination of the future.

While that would be good news for the country's economy, those who have discovered it in the earlier stages of its development would hope it will lose none of its rustic charm.