Horseshoe Inn proves a lucky selection

Published on Thursday 14 February 2008 16:51

IF the first hint of spring this week, however slight, has awakened any inkling for venturing outwith the city walls, then heading south can't be recommended too highly.

For anyone partial to quality food in a fine setting, the sleepy village of Eddleston should be high on the list for destinations.

There lies the Horseshoe Inn, on the main road which continues to the picturesque Borders town of Peebles and directly opposite the twisting road which winds up through the stunning Meldons.

Head chef Patrick Bardoulet has certainly taken the scenic route to Eddleston, and diners at the first restaurant to be owned and run by this talented Frenchman can enjoy the results of his circuitous route to culinary success.

Having begun his career north of Paris at Le Chateau Montvillargenne, Bardoulet has worked in Dublin, England and more recently at the Roxburghe Country House Hotel and Alexander House, before taking the head chef job at a refurbished Jedforest Hotel and obtaining two AA Rosettes within four months of the re-opening.

Perhaps it's not surprising then, given such a track record, that his own place – which he has run along with partner Vivien Steele since 2005 – has already bagged the AA Restaurant of the Year Scotland 2007-08 award and three AA Rosettes. It is obvious from the minute you walk in to the newly revitalised Horseshoe Inn that time, money and care has been invested into creating an opulent but relaxing space for foody indulgence.

We arrived at 7.45 on a Sunday evening, having pre-booked, and the bistro was full with couples and families.

The menu changes daily to allow the freshest of ingredients to be used, but expect to be tempted by the likes of prawns and crab gateau with red pepper, avocado guacamole and chilli dressing, or smooth pat of pork with fig chutney, oatcakes and red wine syrup.

A Russian vegetable salad starter may not sound too appetising but when it's served with the finest smoked ham, chilled ripe galia melon and vodka coulis the dish is transformed into something very special indeed and worked wonders for Fee.

I opted for the French onion soup which also boasted incredibly fine, subtle flavours; not the robust, more rustic version of this fine dish and without melted gruyre cheese and crusty bread on top, but a seriously tasty proposition nonetheless. The caramelised onions offered just the right amount of sweetness to balance a tangy under-bite.

Whenever confit de canard is on the menu I find it nigh on impossible to resist – when the head chef is French and boasts awards by the pan-full, my choice of main course is only going to go one way.

The duck leg was served on butter beans with a mango salsa. Unfortunately this didn't entirely work out, and although there was plenty to savour once I got down to meat nearer the bone, not all of the duck packed a knockout punch and the beans were on the bland side, the mango salsa a little too subtle.

This is splitting hairs as the dish was nonetheless very good. Fee's fillet steak, however, served with grilled tomato, mushrooms, onion rings and French fries with a Diane sauce, was out of this world.

Requested rare, it was delivered just so, and to perfection. Bursting with flavour, it melted in the mouth and effortlessly earned a top-three place in the 'best steaks we've ever had stakes'.

Washed down with a very smooth bottle of house red, a J&F Lurton, all joints on the table were duly dealt with.

No room for deserts, so the likes of a trio of dark, milk and white chocolate mousse with orange compote and pistachio ice cream, or rolled crepe with apples, sultanas and cinnamon with rum-raisin ice cream had to be missed.

Irish coffee, espresso and a very professional service proved sufficient icing on the cake this time, but this is a bistro which will be revisited again and again.

In rapid time the Horseshoe Inn has already earned a lot of fans, both on its own doorstep and from further afield, so booking is essential.

For Edinburgh day-trippers it could well be the perfect destination.

THE BILL

&#149 Russian vegetable salad 5.95

&#149 French onion soup 3.95

&#149 Fillet steak 18.50

&#149 Duck leg confit 11.75

&#149 Two large kirs 8.50

&#149 Bottle house red 11.95

&#149 Irish coffee 3.95

&#149 Double espresso 2.25

Total: 66.80

Quality of food ****

Menu choice ****

Surroundings ****

Service ****

Price ***

&#149 Horseshoe Inn, Eddleston, Peebles, EH45, 01721-730225