Food: Real men do eat quiche.. they even make them

Published on Saturday 5 December 2009 09:41

MALE chefs can be a macho lot. Their workplaces are often uncomfortable, pressurised environments populated by a disproportionately high percentage of other males.

It's a sad fact that in restaurant kitchens women tend to be conspicuous by their absence, certainly not from any lack of cooking skills but probably more as a reaction to the testosterone levels generally on display in this area of the trade.

It's no surprise that the potential alpha-males usually prefer working at the flashy end of the menu, cooking meat and fish to order while creating impressive flames, slamming ovens and shouting. Vegetarian choices are often scoffed at, and the pastry section with its more labour-intensive but less manly work is sometimes regarded as punishment corner. Baking a quiche is therefore viewed as one of the least macho of kitchen tasks.

Don't let all that put you off. If you happen to be male and find yourself pinning out pastry and whisking eggs you don't have to feel that it's making you less of a man. After all you're in good company. As any good film buff will remind you, James Bond once took time off from defying master criminals and chasing beautiful women to whip up a quiche.

He may have been showing off his more sensitive side but he still got the girl and nailed the villain so quiche-making clearly doesn't affect your masculinity where it counts.

Any gastronomic worries you may have about quiches and other egg-based flan dishes usually concern the pastry base. You can follow pastry recipes to the letter and still find that it's a knack you just don't have. If after a few attempts that seems to be the case then it's probably best to admit defeat and quietly buy in some frozen sheets. You may have to swallow your culinary pride but you won't waste any more time or ingredients.

Once you've solved the pastry problem the rest is easy. Whisk some eggs together with milk and seasoning then think about your flavourings. If you're using fillings such as mushrooms that have a high water content it's best to saut and drain them first.

Often vegetable and cheese based, quiches work just as well with certain seafood ingredients such as salmon, tuna, prawns or crab meat. Meat fillings such as bacon and chorizo will also add flavour and colour, but remember to cook them off beforehand and drain away any fat or oil.

Once you've realised that quiches can be fun and relatively easy you could try the dessert variation. Make a sweet pastry base and when whisking the filling substitute cream for milk, add sugar along with concentrated lemon and lime juice and you can have a delicious baked citrus tart.

Exercising your quiche-making skills may not win you too much admiration from any overly macho chefs who happen to spot what you're doing but who cares? After all, it didn't seem to harm 007's reputation.

Andy McGregor is chef/proprietor at Blonde Restaurant, 75 St Leonard's Street, 0131-668 2917

Recipes

Smoked salmon, feta and spinach quiche

Serves 8

Ingredients

300g plain flour, sifted

150g butter, cut into cubes

pinch of salt

200g fresh spinach, washed and dried

200g smoked salmon trimmings, diced

3 eggs

125ml double cream

125ml milk

150g feta, crumbled

20g fresh dill, chopped

Salt and ground black pepper

Method:

Pre-heat the oven to 160C.

Place flour and butter in a mixing bowl and add salt. Rub together with your fingers until combined and resembles breadcrumbs. Gradually add cold water while mixing until just combined but not sticky. Pin out into a circle and press into a greased flan tin, allowing a little overhang, then rest for 20-30 mins. Lightly prick the base with a fork then line with baking parchment, fill with dry beans or rice then bake for 15-20 mins until golden brown. Remove beans and parchment and bake for a further 5 mins and remove. Whisk the eggs, milk and cream together and add the dill and seasoning. Arrange the spinach, salmon and feta in the pastry case then pour over the egg mix. Bake for 30-45 mins until set.

Baked citrus tart

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

250g plain flour, sifted

100g icing sugar

200g butter, cut into cubes

Pinch of salt

10 eggs

150g caster sugar

100ml lemon juice

50ml lime juice

175ml double cream

Method:

Pre-heat the oven to 180C. Place flour, butter, salt and icing sugar in a mixing bowl and rub together until mix resembles breadcrumbs, then follow recipe above to cook the pastry base.

Whisk eggs, lemon and lime juice together, then carefully blend in the cream. Pour the mixture into the cooked pastry case and bake for 20-30 mins until set. Cool and serve.