Food: Strawberries for Wimbledon taste best homegrown

Published on Saturday 30 May 2009 11:18

BACK in the days before supermarkets insisted upon having every kind of foodstuff available all the year round, the appearance of fresh strawberries in your local grocers was a bit of an event, like the arrival of the Beaujolais Nouveau or the first grouse of the season.

Summer had symbolically begun and you could look forward to three months of school holidays, golf and Wimbledon, not to mention picnics, barbecues and even fruit-picking for those with strong backs.

Well, all those summertime pursuits can continue to be enjoyed and it's still worth getting excited about the fresh outdoor grown strawberries grown locally, that should be arriving at a shop near you.

Time to welcome soft, zingy fruit that looks and tastes like the real thing from summers past, as opposed to the oversized, crunchy and largely tasteless imported varieties that have been picked before being fully ripe and flown long-distances to stock super- market shelves.

Buying local produce is clearly good for the environment as well as the economy and you can take this principle a step further by getting out there and picking your own. There are several fruit farms around Edinburgh that allow you to do your own harvesting which can make for a pleasantly therapeutic couple of hours, though getting the stains out of your fingers may take longer.

As fresh strawberries taste best when just picked you will inevitably eat almost as many as you buy, so once you get your haul home the prospect of more for dessert may not appeal.

If that is the case then you shouldn't be tempted to freeze your strawberries as once thawed they will become soggy and unpleasant. A better way to deal with any excess fruit would be to dig out the preserving pan and make some jam. Guaranteed to evoke rosy memories of childhood summers, the pleasant aroma of boiled fruit will fill your house for hours. Remember to sterilise your jars thoroughly and add some lemon juice to the fruit to help your jam set properly.

Of course there are numerous uses for fresh strawberries other than preserving them. Practically any type of dessert will benefit from them as an ingredient or an accompaniment, especially tarts, mousses, cheesecakes and gateaux. They go particularly well with meringue, and a hazelnut pavlova with fresh strawberries and whipped cream is a satisfyingly wicked summer pudding that's hard to beat.

For something less traditional and a little more eyebrow-raising you could lightly saut your strawberries with a good few twists of black pepper and drizzle them with balsamic syrup. You'll be surprised how the black pepper will bring out the flavour of the fruit while the balsamic will compliment its sharpness without being overpoweringly sweet.

As with most classic foodstuffs simplicity is the key, and strawberries are probably best enjoyed Wimbledon-style, outdoors on a sunny day with a sprinkling of sugar and some pouring-cream. Together with an Andy Murray victory of course.

Andy McGregor is chef/proprietor at Blonde Restaurant, St Leonard's St, 0131 668 2917

RECIPES

Hazelnut meringue pavlova with fresh strawberries serves 6

Ingredients:

4 egg whites

200g caster sugar

200g ground hazelnuts

Half tsp vanilla essence

Half tsp white wine vinegar

1 tsp cornflour

300ml whipping cream

400g fresh strawberries, washed, hulled and halved

Method

Pre-heat the oven to 150C.

Grease and line a flan ring with silicon paper.

Whisk the egg whites until stiff then whisk in half the sugar. With a metal spoon carefully fold in the remaining sugar, vanilla, vinegar, cornflour and half the hazelnuts. Spread into the flan ring, smooth out then place in the oven for 45 mins to 1 hour until golden brown and crisp on top. Cool then peel off the silicon paper.

Whip the cream until stiff then spread on top of the meringue. Arrange the strawberries on top then sprinkle with the remaining hazelnuts.

Sauted strawberries with black pepper and balsamic syrup, serves 4

Ingredients:

500g fresh strawberries, washed, hulled and halved

200ml balsamic vinegar

100ml clear honey

1 tbsp caster sugar

50g butter

olive oil

black pepper from a mill

Method:

Combine the balsamic vinegar, honey and sugar in a saucepan, bring to the boil and reduce by half. Allow to cool.

Melt the butter in a pan with a little olive oil then toss in the strawberries. Add a good few twists of black pepper and saut for 2-3 minutes until softened. Portion out and drizzle with the balsamic syrup.