Food: Source local produce for better value and nutrition

Published on Saturday 28 March 2009 10:26

ACCORDING to TS Eliot: "April is the cruellest month, breeding lilacs out of the dead land, mixing memory and desire, stirring dull roots with spring rain." However, after the extended cold Scottish winter, the long-awaited spring season means that April, which is almost upon us, is anything but harsh. Especially when it comes to food.

The new season brings with it a myriad of fare. So, as we start looking forward – food-wise at least – to the beginning of a Scottish summer, it's time to make the most of Scotland's larder.

Locally-sourced, seasonal food is not only exciting for us chefs, but it makes financial and nutritional sense too. Foods are at their peak nutritional value when they are fresh and ripe, and items which are clocking up air miles are picked before ripeness. Aesthetically, they may look good, but the nutritional value – and often taste value – decreases every day of its expensive journey.

So make the most of April. Brighter colours and flavours are breaking through in the form of rosemary, spinach, strawberries, and morel mushrooms. Spinach is great in ravioli, teamed with mushrooms in a lasagne, on pizza and even as the main event in a salad. Morel mushrooms work fantastically in risotto with shavings of parmesan, while strawberries can be savoury or sweet. Lamb is synonymous with spring, as it is light and succulent, and full of flavour. And, we have an abundance of it right here in Scotland, of a quality which is hard to beat.

Buying lamb from a good butcher or the farmers' market means you will be getting fresher lamb and of a far better quality than big supermarkets. Always look for firm, pinkish meat with creamy white fat.

Try opting for something different than the standard roast. Lamb cutlets with feta and mint salad, baked loin of lamb, goats cheese lamb burgers, glazed leg of lamb . . . the options are endless. And not a roast in sight.

Peter Fleming is head chef of Hadrian's Brasserie at The Balmoral, www.thebalmoralhotel.com. For reservations, telephone [phone].

RECIPES

Baked loin of Scottish lamb topped with minted mousse and golden pastry (serves four)

Ingredients:

1 loin of lamb, trimmed to eye of meat

2 small breasts of skinless, boneless chicken

1 egg

1 egg white

3 sprigs fresh mint, picked and shredded

Half teaspoon horseradish

Half teaspoon English mustard

1 block puff pastry, rolled out to cover length of lamb

Flour (to roll pastry out on)

3 large baking potatoes, peeled and sliced very thin

2.5 pints double cream

2 cloves garlic crushed

1 sprig thyme

Splash of milk

Vegetable oil

Salt and pepper

80gms gruyere cheese, grated

80gms parmesan, grated

90gms butter

1 packet French beans

4 shallots, chopped

1 pint beef stock

200ml Madeira

Method:

Heat frying pan with vegetable oil, season and seal both sides of lamb. Allow to cool. To make mint mousse, using a food processor add chicken, egg white, mint, horseradish, English mustard, quarter pint of double cream, salt and pepper. Blend to a paste. Put mixture into bowl and slowly fold in another quarter pint double cream. Place mousse in piping bag and pipe on to the top of the sealed lamb.

Roll up pastry on rolling pin and drape over mousse and loin, before gently wrapping all around. Place loin on baking tray lined with silicone baking paper, and brush with a beaten egg mixed with a splash of milk. Cook in oven, 200C, for 10-15 minutes. Remove and rest.

Place 2 pints double cream, garlic, thyme and seasoning in saucepan and gently warm. Butter a deep dish and layer up sliced potatoes with seasoning and warmed cream mix. Sprinkle cheeses on top. Cook in oven at 170C for 1.5 hours until potatoes are soft. Keep warm to serve.

Place Madeira in saucepan and reduce for one minute. Add beef stock. Gently bring to the boil and keep warm. Warm French beans up in boiling water. In frying pan, melt butter, add shallots, cook gently for one minute then add French beans. Season.

To serve, carve lamb and place on warm plates. Arrange a spoonful of cut-out gratin potato, and a neat pile of French beans. Spoon Madeira just on to plate. Serve.

Grilled lamb with feta salad (serves four)

Ingredients:

12 lamb cutlets

250g feta cheese, sliced and diced

1 red onion, peeled and sliced

2 sprigs fresh mint, chopped

Small packet of sun-dried tomatoes

Quarter cucumber, peeled, cut in half lengthways, de-seeded and sliced

12 black olives

1 loaf olive bread, cut into pieces and lightly toasted

Quarter pint lamb stock

Splash of olive oil

Salt and pepper

Method:

Heat a little vegetable oil in frying pan, season lamb cutlets and seal off in pan. Cook for 5 minutes until pink. Rest.

Using a large bowl, add feta, red onion, mint, olive oil and seasoning. Mix together. Press mix into four cutters/rings and top with sun-dried tomatoes, cucumber and olives. Warm up lamb jus.

To serve, place feta rings on plate and slowly remove rings. Place cutlets in a stacked pile to the side of the feta salad.

Place stacked bread on the other side. Gently spoon some lamb jus over cutlets. Serve.