Five ways with... Cabbage

Published on Saturday 14 November 2009 13:48

THE domesticated cabbage is cultivated from a leafy plant of the wild mustard family native to Mediterranean coastal regions. The English name is derived from the French caboche, a colloquialism for head, and refers to the relative size similarity.

There are many varieties and they are good sources of vitamins C and A, minerals and glutamine, an amino acid that has anti-inflammatory properties. Indeed, in herbal medicine they have been used since ancient Greek times to reduce swelling.

Cabbage is considered a food for the poor in many cultures and is often used to bulk out small amounts of protein (eg bubble and squeak) or simply added to soups and stews. In central and eastern Europe cabbage soup such as borsch is popular and, when it is pickled in its own juices and salt or vinegar, it is the basis for German sauerkraut, Chinese suan cai and Korean kimchi. Eaten raw, it is often combined with sweeter vegetables and mild dressings to temper its peppery taste.

When buying cabbages, look for heads that are heavy for their type with crisp outer leaves displaying no signs of yellowing. The outer leaves are often discarded, but are useful to protect the moisture in the vegetable during storage. Close-headed varieties will keep for a week, loose leafed ones for no more than a few days. You can extend these times by refrigerating them, covered loosely.

1 Rot kohl (German red cabbage)

1 large red cabbage; 2 tbsp olive oil; 50g goose fat or butter; 10 juniper berries; 5 cloves; 100ml sweet apple juice; 2 cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced; 2 tbsp red wine vinegar

Quarter the cabbage and slice off the white core at an angle. Shred thinly with a sharp knife. In a large pot, heat the oil and fat and add the juniper berries and cloves and cook for two minutes. Add the cabbage and stir to coat. Add the apple juice and cook over a low heat for 30 minutes. Add the apples, vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Cook gently until the apples dissolve. This is better cooked 24 hours in advance and gently reheated before serving. Perfect for Christmas day, especially with goose, duck or game.

2 Thai coleslaw

450g white cabbage, finely shredded; 1 small red onion, thinly sliced; 1 small carrot, coarsely grated; 3 tbsp lime juice; 2 tbsp soy sauce; 1 clove garlic, minced; 1 tsp Thai chilli paste (sambal oelek); 15g fresh coriander, chopped

Put the cabbage, onion and carrot into a bowl and mix well. Pour the lime juice, soy sauce, garlic and chilli paste into a clean screw-top jar and shake to mix. Pour this over the cabbage mixture and mix well (using your hands is best). Cover with cling film and leave for an hour in a cool place. Stir through the coriander before serving.

3 Salmon stuffed cabbage leaves

500g salmon fillet (middle cut); 3 tbsp light soy sauce; 3 tbsp dry sherry; 1 tbsp ginger, peeled and minced; 3 cloves garlic, minced; 6 large cabbage leaves; 3 spring onions, sliced diagonally; 2 tbsp fresh coriander, minced; salt and pepper; 3 tbsp lemon juice

Cut the salmon into six equal portions and place in a shallow baking dish. Combine the next four ingredients and pour over the salmon. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Blanch the cabbage leaves for 30 seconds in boiling water, drain and rinse under cold water till cool. Remove the salmon from the marinade and place one fillet at the base of each cabbage leaf. Combine spring onions, coriander, salt and pepper in a bowl and sprinkle each fillet with the mixture. Fold the cabbage leaves up to form a package. Cook on a plate in a steamer over boiling water for ten minutes. Serve brushed with lemon juice.

4 Spicy cabbage

3 tbsp vegetable oil; tsp fennel seeds, whole; tsp cumin seeds, whole; 4 tsp sesame seeds; 2 onions, sliced; 1 small Savoy cabbage, very finely shredded; salt to taste

Heat the oil in a large saut pan and, when hot, toss in the fennel and cumin seeds. Cook for a minute, till they pop, and add the sesame seeds and onions. Stir till the onions are soft and starting to brown at the edges. Add the cabbage and turn down the heat to low. Cover tightly and cook, shaking occasionally, still covered, until the cabbage wilts. Uncover and stir-fry over a high heat until very tender.

5 Mixed cabbage soup

2kg mixed cabbages (Savoy, white, red, Brussels sprouts); 90ml olive oil; 450g fresh Sicilian (or similar) sausages cut into 3cm chunks; 1 onion, finely chopped; 3 garlic cloves, minced; 2 carrots, finely diced; 1 lt chicken stock

Prepare all the cabbages, cutting leaves into broad strips and the sprouts in half. Heat the oil in a large pan and brown the sausages for ten minutes or so. Add the onions and garlic and cook until softened, then add the carrots and sweat for a further two minutes. Add the cabbage and stock and simmer on a moderate heat for about 30 minutes. Adjust the seasoning and serve.