Filtering out the best and worst

Published on Friday 12 May 2006 12:03

THERE was a time when we wanted nothing more than some Rosie Lee in our china cup, morning, noon or night.

Quintessentially British, we used it to wake us up, to soothe away worries, and to relax us. We even made it a traditional afternoon event once some cucumber sandwiches and scones had been thrown in.

But then, somewhere along the line, the stylish and traditional Italian cup of coffee stole our tastebuds and our hearts.

But not just any old freeze dried coffee. Oh no, we have apparently become a nation of coffee connoisseurs, distinguishing between mocca and macchiato with ease, and quaffing 70 million cups a day, spending 630 million each year on our favourite beans.

The proliferation of coffee shops on our high street is perhaps one of the most notable changes, with 5000 coffee chain outlets in the country. Nowadays a coffee shop rather than a tearoom can be found on just about every street corner, in every shopping centre and in every bookshop. And they're all brimming with customers guzzling espressos, mocha lattes and Colombian filter.

So, with coffee shops now here to stay one question remains: are they any good? Do they serve a decent cup of coffee for the money? Or would the quality of coffee on Edinburgh's high street make a true Italian coffee connoisseur see red?

Scots Italian arts impresario Richard Demarco has loved coffee all his life, trying his first cup aged ten after years of loving the unmistakable smell courtesy of his father's Portobello-based art deco coffee house, Maison De Marco.

From then he was hooked, drinking milky coffee before progressing on to the hard stuff: espresso.

With his family hailing from Picinisco, near Cassino in Italy, life without an espresso or two is unthinkable.

"I drink it everyday, especially when I need a kick," he says. "I need to taste coffee - real coffee. I need to taste the intensity, the quality. And I need to enjoy the experience. There seems to be two kinds of coffee now - the pure, unadulterated and sophisticated Italian coffee or the watered down American version. Coffee comes from Italy and everyone should drink it how it is meant to be drunk."

So we took Richard around some of the city's most popular coffee houses - some of which are Italian - and asked him what he really thought and whether Edinburgh's cafe culture was up to scratch . . .

Starbucks, George Street

Drinking coffee is just as much about the taste as it is the whole experience, laments Richard. It's a drink to enjoy and to contemplate with. So when he enters a bright, modern and bustling Starbucks in the city centre he is underwhelmed.

"It's just not recognisable as a European experience and it lacks any ambience, any defined look," he says.

But Starbucks, an American coffee house chain formed in Seattle in 1970, doesn't purport to be anything else except a cosy and laid back all-American coffee chain, taking inspiration from Italian coffee making.

At 1.35, however, an espresso should be good. Otherwise a shot of hot, strong, thick coffee is a waste of money. But as Richard sits down to taste the espresso, it doesn't get much better. "The coffee is quite bland to be honest, although it does have a good kick to it. It's very hot too."

After finishing the espresso, his mood lightens somewhat, and he admits: "It's okay, I suppose, but nothing remotely memorable."

VERDICT: 2/5

Costa Coffee, Hanover Street

Walking into the quiet branch which overlooks Princes Street and The Mound, Richard is instantly impressed. "It has a good feel to it," he enthuses. "The decor is nice, it's spacious and it has great views. Perfect for relaxing, thinking and chatting."

Which is just as well considering Costa was established 28 years ago by Italian brothers, Sergio and Bruno Costa with that as their aim. Despite the surroundings and the apt catchphrase "Italian about coffee", though, the proof will be in the shot of black coffee for 1.20. Costa prides itself on its unique slow roasting style, which it claims produces a fuller and more authentic flavour. And it seems to make the grade, according to Richard.

"The quality is good," he enthuses. "You can recognise it as Italian - it's commendably authentic. Strong and full of flavour, and a perfect temperature."

VERDICT: 5/5

Cafe Nero, Infirmary Street

It calls itself an Italian coffee company and the independent chain's aim is to provide a "European-style coffee house experience offering premium espresso-based gourmet coffee, authentic Italian food products and a relaxing atmosphere in every store".

It certainly looks the part and, according to Richard, the shop does just what it claims to - and so does the coffee. "It [the espresso] has more of a kick to it compared with some of the other chains, and it's a brave attempt to give that Italian feeling. It tastes good."

The espresso was a thick, smooth, full-bodied coffee, topped with a hazelnut coloured "crema" which clearly hit the spot. He adds: "It's very pleasing actually and worth the 1.30."

Beanscene, Holyrood Road

VERDICT: 4/5

According to the Beanscene website, this coffee chain is "all about the neighbourhood, established to provide a laid back alternative to the city centre coffee chains".

Inspired by American coffee houses, and providing "somewhere to kick back, relax and take life in on it's most simple and enjoyable level", Beanscene promises the ultimate caffeine hit.

Richard agrees . . . on the setting, that is. "This immediately strikes an international chord, and I feel as though I'm living through a scene from Friends. It's not my choice although I can see why some people would find it appealing.

"The espresso, however, is most unacceptable. It has a much sharper taste than I would prefer and it has an acidic aftertaste. Plus, the presentation is not good - they've spilt half of it down the side. And 1.30 for this is not good value for money. It's a poor espresso, by far the worst I've tasted today."

VERDICT: 1/5

Vincaffe, The Walk

Owned by the Italian family behind Valvona and Crolla, Vincaffe is the latest addition - a sleek cafe in Multrees Walk. "This is the nearest thing you'll get to an Italian cafe," says Richard, as he settles down with an espresso. "The smell of the fresh coffee, the surroundings and the ambience are perfect."

While he admits to knowing the owners, who descend from the same part of Italy as Richard, he stresses there is no bias. So, how does the espresso itself measure up? "Perfect. It is the right flavour and made with superior coffee beans. It's a classical Italian espresso made very well. The temperature is also right - all too often coffee houses make the mistake of making the espresso too hot. At 1.50 this is very good value for money."

VERDICT: 5/5

Aroma Cafe, South Bridge

This is a cafe which has been hailed as the best in Edinburgh by Evening News columnist Brian Hennigan. And while it may not have the sleek surroundings of Vincaffe, or the designer look-a-like appearance of its high street competitors, what it lacks in ambience it makes up for in quality and outstanding value for money.

At only 1 for a double espresso, Richard is surprised. And impressed.

"This is really, really good value for money - I can't believe you get almost, what looks like four shots of espresso, for just 1," he admits.

"I'm really impressed. It does the job and it tastes like good quality coffee."

VERDICT: 4/5

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