Feeling the burn in bid to look younger

Published on Friday 6 November 2009 10:07

IT INVOLVES having acid poured on your face, burning a layer off and leaving your skin bright red with bits of skin peeling and falling off. As a beauty treatment, a skin peel sounds like it leaves an awful lot to be desired.

But the living dead look only lasts a few days, rapidly replaced by a reborn complexion, one that's dewy, fresh-looking and altogether more radiant, and all without the aid of a surgeon's knife.

Little wonder then it's the fastest growing non-surgical treatment in the looks-conscious US – but there are rapidly expanding numbers going for the burn on this side of the Atlantic.

While the figures are going up, the ages of those taking this particular acid trip are going down, with Edinburgh practitioners reporting increasing business from those in their 20s and early 30s, who hope that the 30-minute procedure will reverse sun damage and even give them the edge on older-looking competitors during the economic hard times.

At Dermal Clinic, which has ten practices across Edinburgh and one in Penicuik, there's been a 20 per cent rise in TriChloroacetic Acid (TCA) peels, which physically remove the surface layer. They cost from 150 a time – and at least three sessions are needed.

Managing director and medical practitioner, Jackie Glen, explains why, even in penny-pinching times, they are seeing so many more clients: "Everybody is much more aware of the effects that sun damage has on the skin and therefore the ageing effects, and as a result there has definitely been an increase in skin care in general, and facial peels has gone along with that trend.

"Eighty per cent of damage to the skin is caused by environmental factors like sun damage, so if you can take away more rapidly that tarnished skin and get back to the skin underneath, that will give you a more rejuvenated appearance."

Ms Glen, 38, who expects the growth in procedures to continue, also believes the economic recession has played a part, with current competition for jobs at an all-time high.

"With the way the economy is and people feeling a bit down in the dumps, they want to make the best of what they have got," she explains.

"They have to look their best for jobs and as a result are putting a lot more effort in."

Transform Cosmetic Surgery in the Capital has seen inquiries from 18 to 34-year-olds rise by almost a third in a year for the two main type of facial peels – TCA and glycolic, which involves breaking down the glue-like attachments on the surface of the skin, helping to release the dead skin cells more rapidly.

Skin Solutions at Edinburgh's Mulberry House has seen a 70 per cent increase in glycolic facial peel procedures across all age groups over the last 18 months, and a "significant" rise among people in their twenties.

Director of Skin Solutions Dianne Pedersen adds: "It's not just women having facial peels – I think people are more aware of what can be done and what is available.

"Anyone in the position of having to find a new job needs to feel they are making the very best of themselves, and presenting themselves well. Knowing your skin is looking at its best helps with self-confidence and self-esteem."

Glycolic peels are slightly cheaper than TCA, from around 80 – but a course of six is recommended.

Ms Glen adds: "There really isn't anything that can go wrong during the procedure, but things can go wrong if people haven't been assessed properly before treatment."

'The results are well worth the pain'

Joanne Tonner, 31, business analyst, Leith.

Joanne had been plagued by acne since the age of 15, and after trying various creams, antibiotics, and even laser treatment, she decided to opt for a facial peel.

The 31-year-old had her first of a batch of four TCA facial peels in December last year, and has been following the treatment with monthly glycolic peels since March this year.

She explains: "I had really bad skin and I did some research on the internet and came up with the idea of going along to the Transform clinic to see what they could do for me. They recommended a facial peel.

"Now my acne has cleared up. My confidence has increased and I go out now without make-up on. It is a transformation.

"I had started to think that I would never get rid of my acne so it was a relief to find something that worked."

Joanne, who also thinks people have become more image conscious and this has contributed to the rise in the number of facial peels, said she could feel her skin peeling off during the TCA peel.

"Because of all the heartache I had with having acne for so long, I could put up with it," she says.

"The TCA peel does burn, but it only lasts a few minutes. With the glycolic peel you can feel it working, but it's not uncomfortable."

Four days of redness and peeling followed, but Joanne believes the embarrassment was more than worth it.

She adds: "The results it gives are well worth the few minutes of pain and the few embarrassing days."

'My skin is healthier and more radiant'

Duncan Sanders, 29, marketing and operations manager, Abbeyhill.

Sun worshipper Duncan loves nothing more than chilling out in the sun and bronzing his body.

Originally from Sydney, Australia, he has spent a considerable amount of time in the sun over the years, and recently started to notice pigmentation marks on his face and fine lines under his eyes.

Duncan, who moved to Abbeyhill in 2003, had the first of two TCA peels at Transform's Edinburgh clinic in October 2008, and another one in June of this year.

He says: "Before I wouldn't use a lot of sunscreen on my skin and if I did, it was usually after I was burnt.

"Premature aging of my skin was a concern so I thought it would be a good option to treat the skin and start looking after it a bit more.

"It was a case of me wanting to look after my skin and slow the aging process down."

A facial peel was recommended by a friend, who had success with one. Duncan, who also suffered from acne as a teenager, decided to follow suit.

He adds: "The skin is a lot softer and my pores are a little bit more refined as well. My skin is definitely a lot healthier and more radiant and fresher looking."

He continues: "I was quite pleased with the result and will definitely get another one again in the future - possibly early next year."