Edinburgh is ‘among worst in Europe’ for visitor experience
It is hoped the former Tron Kirk could be transformed. Picture: Susan Nisbet
THE visitor experience in the historic heart of Edinburgh is “among the worst in Europe”, according to the departing head of the city’s world heritage site watchdog.
Charles McKean, a leading historian, academic and author, believes the Scottish capital is being let down by a lack of historical interpretation, the level of roadworks on major thoroughfares, a failure to clear up rubbish at peak times and unwelcoming closes.
In a wide-ranging critique of the city, he has urged the permanent removal of buses from Princes Street and warned it would be a major mistake if the trams opened without a stop at the city’s main train station, Waverley, as is the case under current plans.
Speaking after announcing his departure as chairman of Edinburgh World Heritage (EWH) after six turbulent years, Prof McKean said few new buildings of any note had emerged during his tenure, a period during which he said the council had been “paranoid” about turning down major developments because of the number of jobs involved.
He said EWH had struggled to cope with having its funding from Historic Scotland and the city council slashed by more than half over the last six years, despite a culture of “we are the piper and the piper calls the tune” from the body’s funders.
The last few years have seen growing tensions between the heritage bodies such as the trust – and allies like the Architectural Heritage Society of Scotland and the Cockburn Association – and the city council and Historic Scotland.
However, the trust’s future was recently secured with a £2.1 million funding deal from Historic Scotland for the next three years, while future funding from the council is due to be confirmed within weeks, despite previous warnings that it might have to end. Prof McKean said: “We’ve had a lot of successes in the last six years, considering at that time there was lot of uncertainty as to what role we should have. Some people saw us merely being there to act as a brake on what the council was doing.
“We have been really successful in the restoration work that has been carried out to historic buildings and monuments in that time, which we have led on, and we are now much less reliant on public funding.
“There has certainly been an element of ‘largesse’ to our relationship with the council and Historic Scotland, where they’ve been a bit like a king handing out pots of gold, and an element of ‘we are the piper and the piper calls the tune’. There are better relationships now, though they could be better. But it is not a case of us simply saying ‘no’, now it is more of a case of ‘how’. But there is still a lot to do and it has been a failure of the last few years that we’ve not managed to improve the general visitor experience, parts of which are among the worst in Europe, particularly with things like historic interpretation, and the amount of general clutter.
“You only have to look at other cities like Vienna and Lyon to see the difference. If you are curious about something here, there is nothing to tell you what it is.”
Jim Lowrie, the city council’s planning leader, said: “They [EWH] have changed a lot in the past few weeks. They work closely with the council behind the scenes now, and they can still comment on developments which are coming through, which is better than simply objecting to them. They are also making a big difference to the historic fabric of the city.”
Adam Wilkinson, director of Edinburgh World Heritage, paid tribute to Professor McKean’s “sterling work”.
• Transforming the derelict former Tron Kirk into a major visitor attraction is set to be the next major project for Edinburgh World Heritage.
Just months after the organisation started transforming a rundown former brothel on the Canongate, it already has its sights set on restoring the fortunes of the A-listed Tron.
Professor McKean said the long-term aim of turning the 17th century former church into a bustling visitor attraction would end EWH’s reliance on the public purse, but also provide the city with a proper tourism centre.
The trust hopes to strike a deal with the council, which owns the historic landmark, so that it can begin fundraising to transform the building – which has been lying empty since 2006.
Professor McKean said: “The council hasn’t got the funding available to do anything with it. We’d be responsible for raising the money to make it happen and, in time, it would generate enough to ensure we weren’t reliant on public funding in future.”
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Comments
There are 29 comments to this article
Page 1 of 2
pglah
Thursday, February 16, 2012 at 02:14 AMSadly I have to agree. I have lived in Edinburgh for almost ten years now, and it is certainly a wonderful city in so many ways, with a lot to offer - culture, beauty, heritage, views... But when tourism is obviously such an important part of the city's economy, why are many tourist facilities then so hopelessly mismanaged and unwelcoming? The last time I visted the VisitScotland centre at Waverley to ask about how to get to a small place just outside Edinburgh via public transport, the staff didn't even know what I was talking about - until I pointed it out on a map (a bit difficult for a first-time visitor, I reckon!) And I left with a timetable that wasn't even valid any longer - how professional was that? On other occasions, wanting to pick up the Celtic Connections brochure there, I have been told that 'We don't do Celtic Connections!' Is that because it is in Glasgow? Still in Scotland though - VisitScotland it says on the door!! And the new tourist pass that is being advertised by Lothian Buses since end of last year - perhaps I have misunderstood something but if I add up what is included it seems a true rip-off!! Buy 2 - pay for 3!! Just let us not talk about the trams - what a disgrace it is - many other cities have manged to get tram systems up and running without any particular problems - Zurich for instance. But here ... the rails worn out even before they have been put to any use!! I don't know what to say really. Edinburgh Castle so - the Jewel in the Crown. But actually, apart from the stunning views - not too impressive if you consider what is actually on show. Somehow, I get the impression when visiting that the main purpose is to flog as many overpriced souvenirs as possible to the visitors who have already paid a rather substantial fee to enter. The coffee shops-restaurant are not the most well-managed enterprises either - it takes ages, there is often total confusion, the tables are usually full of dirty cups and other stuff that nobody seems instructed to deal with. Why not spend a few moments reflecting upon what a visitor would enjoy and find interesting when visiting - and not just see opportunities to earn money all the time? There are gems though, luckily, to finish off with something positive. Both the National Galleries and the National Museum of Scotland seem able to manage their various museums beautifully. Perhaps Historic Scotland could have a little look there and get some ideas! Or VisitScotland for that matter - not just a little look... And to make it even better, the newly re-opened Scottish National Portrait Gallery is absolutely top-class. So let us hope the tourists vote with their feet and get to know about and experience those places that take an interest in them and leave the others to contemplate their policies and plans.
dgg
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 11:46 PMLots of comments about getting rid of tourists. Edinburgh would be a much poorer place (literally) if tourists were discouraged. Income from tourists (now all year round) plus the various Festivals brings in loads of money if you combine direct and indirect income. To those proposing 'Edinburgh for the citizens' I presume you'll be happy never to go on a foreign holiday again?
dgg
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 11:37 PMLet's go back to just pre-tram. Edinburgh buses were so efficient that Princes street was often chockers with them. Hard to imagine, eh?
dgg
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 11:29 PMOn his way out he's commenting on recent builds, probably triggered by the though of a giant wheel in Princes Street Gardens, and the way in which various heritage bodies don't cooperate. i.e. they in-fight. His remarks aren't far off the mark but will be too easily interpreted as over-the-top sour grapes, which is sad.
Paulista
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 07:20 PM"Among the worst in Europe". Is this guy joking? What other cities is he comparing it with and what exactly has he done to improve things in his six-year tenure? There are certainly plenty of things to moan about - particularly the traffic chaos in Princes St and West End caused by the tram fiasco, the beggars and the amateurish service in some hotels and restaurants - but in overall terms Edinburgh is much better than many places. It´s a compact place easy enough to walk, parts of which are in the country with glorious views, friendly locals and well preserved Auld and New Town. I´ve never met anyone who hasn´t been enchanted by Edinburgh and I speak as someone who is originally from Glasgow.
gcummings
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 05:48 PMI have been there twice in the last 6 years. Each time, I had a wonderful time viewing all of the historic sites and buildings.
ScotCan
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 05:43 PMThe city manages to raise itself above all the petty problems that face it, and virtually ever other major city in the world. If my wife and I had the ways and means we would move to Edinburgh in a flash. This is after more than 50 visits from our home base in Canada. Fix the problems, of course, but enjoy what is there. Like the old saying "Accentuate the positive".
B K
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 05:18 PM#11 "WJohn Monday, February 13, 2012 at 09:40 AM The tram stop is at Ann Summers and Primark, both icons of Scottish culture. What more could a visitor wish for?" A stop at Edinburgh's world famous "saunas" and strip bars?
Beth Boyle
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 04:29 PMI thought Edinburgh was the most beautiful city I had ever seen and went back two years latter. I long to go again soon. There is no place like it.
Sister Wendy
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 01:25 PMNumber 10 - Lowrie is a danger to this city - always has been!
Sister Wendy
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 01:22 PMWhy is it that people like Charles McKean only feel able to speak out when they are leaving their post? I agree with much of what he is saying. Edinburgh Council have completely lost their way in running this city. Apparently, they even want to turn Princes Street Gardens into a theme park by plonking a great big wheel in them. Shameful! But never mind, visitors to the bog wheel might spend a few quid on Princes Street when they're here!
Iain in Spain
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 01:08 PMThe only complaints I have had from my Spanish friends who have been to Edinburgh are: 1. Why can you not do the tram works in bits so as not to mess up all of Princes Street? 2. Why is there so much litter? 3. Why can you not have lunch at Spanish lunch time (3 p.m.)? And elsewhere, 1. Why did a restaurant in Glen Coe close for lunch in August? 2. Why does the Iona ferry not run after dark so people can see the sunset? Sadly, most like the tartan tat shops, although, here in Barcelona, the opening of their equivalent, Spanish tat shops, has been restricted by the council. So they hate them too. Up to a point.
Sally Longlegs
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 11:17 AMYes please come and join us for our New Year celebrations but dont expect to be able to by lunch or even a coffee the next day, We are SHUT ! We are a disgrace. The shops bars and cafes love the cash but will not provide a service when needed.
korndog
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 11:10 AM#7 And yet they are full of tourists on a daily basis.... Far from "single handedly destroying tourism in Edinburgh and destroying the appearance of a World Heritage city" They apear to me to be responding to a demand, otherwise they would go out of business surely? Or is your real problem with the family that runs the shops?
trenchchat
Monday, February 13, 2012 at 10:55 AM~1 - You are completely out of touch and your post is surely a bit of a joke. As a frequent visitor to European cities in Germany and Scandanavia -as well as Sheffield - trams are very popular as well as efficient and buses are becoming extinct. I am fed up with the Weary Willies who frequent these posts - for goodness sake move with the times!
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