City guide - Vancouver

Published on Thursday 24 July 2008 16:51

Canada's dramatic far west offers jagged peaks, glittering seas – and one of the finest cities in North America

FreQUENTLY voted one of the most desirable places in the world to live, Vancouver is a pretty special place, even for a holiday. With the sparkling Pacific on one side, the snowcapped mountains of Whistler on the other, and the vast green expanse of Stanley Park – the biggest city park in North America – slap-bang in the middle, it really does have the best of all worlds. Currently gearing up for the 2010 Winter Olympics, the economy is booming, meaning there couldn't be a better time to hit town.

BEFORE YOU GO

Time Out's Vancouver (12.99) gives the lowdown on the city's history, plus details of where to go and what to see.

PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES

You can fly to Vancouver from Glasgow with FlyGlobespan (www.flyglobespan.co.uk) from around 235 each way, or Zoom Airlines (www.flyzoom.com) from around 300 each way (both fares include taxes).

WHEN TO GO

The temperature in July, August and September settles around a balmy 24C, while winters are mild – it rarely gets too hot or too cold. But bring your brolly, because it can rain a lot. The upside is lush greenery and low pollution levels.

GETTING AROUND

The city's public transport system is terrific, with plenty of buses and trams. A transfer ticket allows unlimited changes in a 90-minute period, or a book of ten will see you through your holiday. Like many modern cities, though, Vancouver's centre is easily navigated on foot.

TOURIST TRAIL

Take the Skyride up Grouse Mountain. A cable car leaves every 15 minutes from 9am until 10pm, taking passengers 1,100m above sea level. A ticket (about 16) also gives admittance to an Imax cinema and a wildlife refuge at the top, while in winter there are sleigh rides and an ice rink.

GO NATIVE

Shelter from the rain in the many coffee shops and watch the world go by. Then take the 99 bus along Broadway from the west side of the city to the east for a taste of its dramatic and varied cultures. Drink in the changing landscape as you move from a wealthy area of posh houses to the poorer, more architecturally jumbled and ethically diverse, east side.

If you're feeling energetic, hire rollerblades and explore Stanley Park on wheels. It's the only way to travel (just make sure you know how to stop). You can hire skates from Bikes 'n' Blades (00 1 604 602 9899) for around 2.50 an hour.

WHAT TO BUY

The main shopping drag is Robson Street, home to high-street chains such as Jacob (Canada's equivalent of Next), Roots (a bit like Gap) and Aldo (for reasonably priced, high-fashion shoes). Cross the Burrard Inlet to West Vancouver for its chic boutiques, upmarket restaurants and pretty parks. Then pick up a posh present or two at Granville Island market, a treasure trove of fresh produce and handmade craftwork.

WHERE TO EAT

Vancouver has a burgeoning film industry and is often used as a location for filming, so expect to spot the odd celeb while you're chowing down. On my visit, I saw Penelope Cruz at the Fish House (www.fishhousestanleypark.com) in Stanley Park – not surprising, as it offers some serious cooking and fabulous afternoon tea. If you like seafood, sample Vancouver's best chippie, Go Fish. The fare couldn't be fresher as the owner buys it off the boats while it's still leaping.

NIGHTLIFE

You're spoilt for choice when it comes to live music, whether it's classical, rock or jazz. Check out www.livemusicvancouver.com for the latest information. There is a vibrant underground club scene in the city, but you can't beat the Plaza (www.plazaclub.net) for mainstream vibes.

WHERE TO STAY

Elton John and Catherine Zeta-Jones check into the Sutton Place Hotel (www.suttonplace.com) while they're in town. But for tighter budgets, the Victorian Hotel (www.victorianhotel.ca) is full of 19th-century charm – double rooms start at around 50.

CAN YOU DRINK THE WATER?

Tap water is clean and safe to drink.