City guide: Budapest

Published on Tuesday 15 December 2009 14:39

VISIT Budapest. You'll develop a deep admiration for a city that is visually gorgeous and one of the most lively in Europe.

The two halves, Buda and Pest, are separated by the Danube and joined by several bridges. Pest is the downtown city centre, while Buda is home to the castle and breathtaking views. Travelling between the two is a cab ride – or a walk – away.

Before You Go

Grab a copy of TimeOut Budapest. The magazine has listings of what's going on at the museums, clubs and music venues each week. It costs just 1.50, but it's free in town and at hotels.

Planes, Trains, Automobiles

There are no direct flights, but BA and KLM get you there from Scotland with one transfer for about 200. If you'd like to piggyback a night or two in Vienna, it's only three hours by train and roughly 31.

Getting Around

The best way to see all the sights is to embrace your inner tourist and take a hop-on, hop-off bus tour (12). Once you know the layout, subways are easy to navigate. Taxis? Call ahead – many of the ones you flag on the street will try to scam you. CityTaxi is one reliable company; most hotels will have the number.

Tourist Trail

The tour bus will make stops at half a dozen sights, including the second-largest synagogue in the world, Heroes' Square, the castle and the Citadel. The Citadel is the highest point in Buda, with expansive views of the city. After the bus, see the House of Terror at 60 Andrassy Blvd. Formerly a home to Nazi and Communist Party terror organisations, the basement is full of cells, torture rooms and gallows. Then be sure to take some time to relax at the Szechenyi thermal bath house. Dozens of medicinal mineral baths range from frigid to hot. Just remember your swimming gear.

Nightlife

A favourite is Instant, an abandoned apartment building-turned-club, where you can drink in various nooks and crannies and a DJ spins in the cavernous basement. Romkert is a great outdoor venue that overlooks Pest. Szimpla Kert was also an abandoned building, evidenced by the missing roof and baths that have been turned into sofas. Most bars close around 4am. Next stop: Piaf, an after-hours club and former brothel. The walls are still covered in red velvet.

Where to Stay

For a quiet hotel on the nicest street in Budapest, the Andrassy (www.andrassyhotel.com) is your pick. Rooms are large and cost from 160, with the underground just a block away. But if you have the means, treat yourself to a stay at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace (www.fourseasons.com). Formerly a luxury apartment building, it is among the most beautiful buildings in the city and located in the heart of the downtown area. Request a room, costing from 220, with views of the Danube and Chain Bridge.

When to Go

April to September is best. The warmer the weather, the more bars and restaurants allow for outdoor eating and drinking. Budapest gets a good deal of sunshine, with summer highs around 25C.

Where to Eat

Gerlczy Kvhz is an indoor/outdoor caf with superb breakfasts and coffee. For dinner, try Baraka, which serves gourmet Hungarian fare inside the Andrassy hotel. Goose liver with poached pear is a must, followed by lamb – you won't be disappointed. M is an adorable restaurant and a favourite among chefs in town. The food is Hungarian with a French accent. For Italian, hit Donatella's Kitchen.

What to Buy

Flea markets and stands selling touristy gifts are scattered throughout the city. Pick up some Tokaj, a delicious dessert wine. But for actual antiques, the best flea market is Escersi, though it's a 20-minute cab ride north. Tisza is a revamped communist-era shoe brand that makes trainers for men and women that none of your mates will have.