City guide: Vienna

Published on Friday 21 August 2009 15:02

"Vienna waits for you," sang Billy Joel. The impeccably maintained Austrian capital certainly will, and in pristine condition, too. The walk-able city centre provides plenty of options for the motivated or laidback traveller, whether it's viewing historical attractions or merely taste-testing at the wurstelstands that pop up on every block like Starbucks.

Areas outside the city centre are easily accessible by the underground and an honour system means no turnstile blocks your entry, merely your conscience.

While Vienna is certainly abundant in sausages and breathtaking architecture, it lacks some of the buzz of Europe's other capitals. Maybe Billy Joel was right. If Ibiza is more your thing, then Vienna can wait until you're ready to take a leisurely stroll through a gallery, sip Viennese coffee and see the opera in the evening. However, as long as you're not expecting a party central experience, there's no shortage of things to do for a long weekend.

Before you go

Spend some time on the website www.wien.info/en to find events you'd like to see. That way, you can choose a weekend when there are operas and exhibits you want to visit.

Planes, Trains, Automobiles

There are no direct flights from Scotland to Vienna. Flights with a stop-over cost around 200. However, if you make your way to London, you can pick up a cheap flight on EasyJet or Austrian Airlines for about 40.

Getting Around

The city centre is best navigated on foot, as many of the major attractions are near one another. To hit other sites, buses and subways are plentiful and run on time. Plus, cabs have meters so you won't be duped.

Tourist Trail

The Habsburgs ran their empire from the Hofburg, a gorgeous compound right downtown. Spend hours roaming the grounds, including a reading room, gardens and the more intimate imperial apartments. Nearby is the Kunsthistor museum, which showcases everything from Egyptian artefacts to masterpieces from the 19th century.

Then visit Schnbrunn Palace, the Habsurgs' summer residence. It's a bit off the beaten path, but it is picturesque, relaxing and happens to be near the intriguing Heeresgesch military museum.

Nightlife

Don't expect Paul Oakenfold to pop into a club here. Instead, hit the bars and pubs. You can start at 1516, a beer hall that brews its own suds and has good food as well.

Bendl, the oldest bar in Vienna, is a divey saloon where locals drink and where the prices are still in Schillings. If you're desperate for a club, the best are Donar Techno and Fluc.

Where to Stay

Stay in the city centre. The best choice is the Ring Hotel, just a block from the Opera house, and right near four wurstelstands. The Ring has clean, modern rooms at about 200 a night for a single (www.theringhotel.com). The beds are cushiony and the pillows fluffy. Breakfast is included and the waffles are delicious. Plus, Beyonce stayed there.

When to Go

Vienna tends to get windy and cold in the winter, so it's a good idea to go at this time of year, when temperatures are still averaging between 16C and 20C during the day. However, in the height of summer the city is certainly at its most crowded, while late spring or early autumn provide nice weather, cheaper hotel rates and fewer tourists.

Where to Eat

For an afternoon pick-me-up, Lantman coffee shop is a favourite. At least it was for Freud, who was a regular. A Kaiser krainer with spicy mustard is a must (it's a sausage filled with melted cheese). The best is right near the Ankhur clock in Howre Market. For dinner, Deewan is a cheap Pakistani restaurant where the food is good and you only pay as much as you want.

Fans of fine dining should head to the award winning Restaurant Steireck, where the menu is gourmet Viennese, which means rabbit, pigeon and some seafood.

What to Buy

Vienna is no fashion Mecca, but you will find the usual suspects – Zara, Louis Vuitton and Gap – in the main streets. Mariahilferstrasse is a local shopping mall, but there are certainly no regional must-haves – unless you fancy a Mozart wig.