City guide: Valletta

Published on Friday 6 November 2009 17:27

Head to Malta's genteel harbour capital for a cultural fix at any time of year and a taste of its rich and colourful history

A CITY built by gentlemen for gentlemen, Valletta is a Unesco world heritage site, by virtue of its wealth of baroque architecture. But the Maltese capital is more than just a living, breathing museum: dotted with wine bars and cafs, it plays host to all manner of cultural events, from film festivals and opera performances to a concert by Tom Jones this month. The splendours of the city itself are matched only by its Grand Harbour, described by Hans Christian Anderson in 1814 as the most beautiful he had seen.

BEFORE YOU GO

The city's official website (www.cityofvalletta.org) has lots of information on its history as well as current events and a helpful map for getting around. See www.hotels.com for up-to-date accommodation deals.

PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES

Air Malta (www.airmalta.com) flies daily from Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen, with prices starting at around 84 each way. The airport is around 5km from the capital – pick up the number eight bus, which will take you to Valletta. Services run every 20 minutes or so. Taxis are also plentiful, and fixed rates apply. You can buy pre-paid tickets at the booth in the arrivals hall.

GETTING AROUND

The buses – which are orange and display the route number on the front – will take you out of town to the main resorts of Sliema, Marsaxlokk and Mdina, as well as to the popular beaches. But the city of Valletta itself is laid out in a simple grid of streets and is best explored on foot.

WHERE TO STAY

For a great location and stunning views, the five-star Grand Hotel Excelsior (www.excelsior.com.mt) is hard to beat. Slap bang in the city centre, it is perfect for history lovers, being so close to the archaeological sites of Vittoriosa, Cospicua and Tarxien Temples. Set amid four acres of landscaped gardens and within the 16th-century bastion walls of Valletta, the hotel overlooks the sea and an indoor and outdoor pools plus a luxurious spa. Rooms start at around 107 per night. For something a little quirkier, the three-star Osborne Hotel (www.osbornehotel.com) is housed in a former palace built by the knights of the Order of St John. Not only is it moments away from the major museums and shops, it also boasts a rooftop swim-spa and terrace with breathtaking views. Rooms start from 57 per night. For luxury on a budget, 115 The Strand (www.115aparthotel.com) overlooks Marsamxett harbour and rooms cost from just 16 per night.

WHEN TO GO

Spring and early autumn are ideal, as temperatures are still in the mid to high 20Cs but you can still get a bargain with hotel prices. If you like your holiday to go with a bang, the Malta International Fireworks Festival takes place next year from 29 to 30 April, but there are events taking place every month. See www.visitmalta.com to see what tickles your fancy.

WHAT TO BUY

The open-air market in Merchants Street sells a variety of fresh food, local drinks and crafts. It is only open in the morning, so get there well before noon to make the most of the bargains. On Sundays, the market is held outside the town walls, but it is accessible by bus. Make sure you pick up some of the locally made nougat.

WHERE TO EAT

Da Pippo, in Melita Street, is popular with the capital's bright young things, serving a mix of Italian and Maltese cuisine. The more formal Rubino, in Old Bakery Street, is popular with business people, while Fusion 4, in St John's Cavalier Street, is a dramatic venue for dinner. Set in the 400-year-old city walls, its menu features a range of local and international dishes and is setting the standard for the rest of Valletta's kitchens to follow.

NIGHTLIFE

For a taste of true Maltese culture, try Valletta Trabuxu, in South Street. This lively wine bar serves up some excellent meat platters and delicious cakes to help soak up the wine, and the service is friendly and swift.

GOING NATIVE

Get close to nature with a stroll around the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Recently restored to their original splendour, they provide magnificent views of the Grand Harbour. There are also some stunning statues, most notably the bronze monument by Antonio Sciortino known as Les Gavroches (street urchins), which depicts the hardships faced by local people at the turn of the 20th century.

TOURIST TRAIL

A visit to St John's Cathedral is a must. Built after the Dowager Queen Adelaide, widow of King William IV, visited the island in 1838-39, it has a majestic baroque interior, while the painted ceiling, altarpiece and side altars illustrate the life of St John.

&#149 This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday on 08/11/09