City guide: Pamplona, Spain

Published on Friday 26 June 2009 15:13

Pamplona was named after the Roman emperor Pompaelo, around the time the empire reached northern Spain and the capital of the Navarra region became a strategic commercial and military meeting point.

Visitors today will find a small city rightly proud of its old town and history, its unusually lush parks and gardens. But from 6 to 14 July it changes completely and, in honour of San Fermin, the French bishop who was later canonised, Pamplonans dress completely in red and white, while the more adventurous run with the bulls.

BEFORE YOU GO Visit www.pamplona.net or www.whatpamplona.com to discover more about the city. If your holidays are focused on San Fermin, check www.sanfermin.com and assemble your fiesta outfit – anything white with a red belt and bow-tie will do. Dip into Ernest Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises, which is set in Pamplona and recounts Papa's hectic partaking of the festivities, along with its darker side, the drama of the first recorded death of a boy in the running of the bulls.

PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES The easiest way to get to Pamplona is by flying from Edinburgh, via London Stansted, to Bilbao (www.easyjet.com, from 200 return), and then getting a bus from there to Pamplona (www.laburundesa.com, 23 return ticket).

GETTING AROUND Forget about the car and use the bus if you are staying outside the town centre. Then discover Pamplona on foot, as you wouldn't want to miss a moment of the fiesta. Besides, many of the streets are closed to traffic during San Fermin and those that aren't become a nightmare for drivers.

TOURIST TRAIL The chupinazo, or beginning of the fiesta (6 July, 12pm), the running of the bulls, or encierro (daily from 7 July, 8am) and the bull fighting (daily from 7 July, 6pm) are the big events that have made San Fermin so famous. Don't miss them, but don't even think about running in front of the bulls – it may look fun but it can be fatal. Forget, too, about throwing yourself from the top of Navarreria Fountain. Though there are many people who do, it is dangerous –and, what's more, it's not even a genuine San Fermin tradition. Instead, walk the encierro route, hire a balcony to see the running one morning (from 25, including breakfast, at www.sanfermin.com), meet the locals at the emotional San Fermin procession (7 July, 12pm) and watch the daily colourful parade of 'giants', the nightly fireworks or the popular big fair. The peas are another essential part of San Fermin, and consist of 16 different groups of family or friends with their own music and outfits that cheer up the streets with a parade. Don't be ashamed to join in and dance.

NIGHTLIFE During the fiesta you will probably find yourself going out during the day and not coming back till the morning after. Head for the bars surrounding the bullfight square such as El Burladero, La Carbonera or La Olla, or places like the Cafe Irua or Casino Eslava in the old town's Plaza del Castillo. And try searching out the locals of some of the peas in Descalzos and Jarauta, San Lorenzo, El Carmen, Estafeta and San Francisco.

WHERE TO STAY You must book in advance and be aware that this is the high season so it won't be cheap. La Perla was Ernest Hemingway's choice and is the only five-star hotel in the city. A double room costs 690, or you can pay 1,200 per night and wake up watching the running of the bulls from your private balcony.

For bullfight lovers, the Maisonnave hotel has appearances from the matadors every evening, while the Yoldi hotel is where they bed down for the night (both from 150 to 750 for a double room). If you feel like staying somewhere a little quieter, you could book one of the San Fermin Apartments from 135 per night. Find out more on www.hoteles pamplona.com.

WHEN TO GO Pamplona is worth a visit at any time of year. If you want to experience the festivities, choose July, otherwise the parks and gardens are at their best during spring and autumn. Avoid the second fortnight of July and August, as you'll find a deserted city recovering from the hard San Fermin days.

WHERE TO EAT Pamplona is part of the famed northern Spanish gastronomic tradition, which you can sample in famous restaurants such as Alhambra, Europa, Josetxo, Don Pablo or El Burladero. Bull tail stew is a speciality. But San Fermin is an outdoors fiesta, which means that eating tapas accompanied by red or white wine or a good vermouth in the old town bars is a must. Try Burgales, Monasterio, Don Luis or the award-winning Gaucho. Avoid food sold on the streets or in the fair though, as it is overpriced and generally suspect.

WHAT TO BUY Traditional embroidered bow-ties and belts with San Fermin motifs or trendy Kukuxumuxu (flea's kiss in Basque) brand T-shirts are always good souvenirs. And don't miss the chance to buy a pair of famous wine 'boots' made from leather.