City guide: Antananarivo

Published on Friday 4 April 2008 13:21

You don't go to the wildlife paradise of Madagascar for cities, but the island's capital is well worth dropping in to

A VIBRANT city full of French colonial architecture, Antananarivo (known to its residents as Tana) clings to the sides of a steep valley. It's the capital of Madagascar, and sits at squarely at the centre of the Indian Ocean island.

The country's wildlife is one of the most diverse in the world (think of the hit children's movie Madagascar, with everything from frogs and geckos to lemurs, whales and giant jumping rats), its natural parks are heaven on earth for hikers, and its out-of-the-way beaches are popular with sunseekers and divers. But Tana is worth a look too – Lonely Planet's Blue List guide for 2008 says it's a real must-see, and a visit here will soon show you why.

BEFORE YOU GO

You'll need to organise a tourist visa and make sure your vaccinations are up to date. Malaria tablets are essential (remember to start taking them before you go). Brush up on your French – it's widely spoken here. Madagascar isn't the sort of place you just pitch up to, so book your trip through an experienced tour operator. For tips to help your visit go smoothly, have a look at Bradt's Travel Guide to Madagascar.

WHEN TO GO

May, June and September are the best months weather-wise. July and August tend to be cool, but are ideal for whale-watching. September to December is breeding season and an excellent time for birdwatching, while October to November is the best time to see baby lemurs. Avoid January to March, which is cyclone season (unless reptiles and orchids are your thing, in which case you'll just have to brave the weather).

PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES

Air France flies from Edinburgh from 850 including taxes, though the price depends on your flexibility with dates and the number of stops you're prepared to make.

GETTING AROUND

Tana is built in a valley, with buildings creeping up the hillside, leading to a labyrinth of crumbling stone staircases and twisting paths that connect different parts of the city. This means walking can be a little strenuous. However, it is worth the effort when you discover all the little markets and other attractions along the way.

Taxis are probably the easiest and most efficient way of moving around, but be prepared for a frantic journey through a city known for its aggressive and reckless drivers.

Another worthy mention has to go to the car hire service, which is more like a personal taxi, as a driver is normally thrown in with the price. This can only be a good thing, as you really don't want to be driving here.

TOURIST TRAIL

Tana is not the sort of place you visit if you enjoy well-organised attractions, but there is plenty to see and do. Make your first stop the Queen's Palace. Not much of the building remains following a fire in the 1990s, but it stands on the highest point so has spectacular views over the city and surrounding paddy fields.

South of Tana is Tsimbazaza Zoo, a showcase for Madagascar's beautiful, unique wildlife. Lemurs (and their arch-enemy, the fossa) are among the highlights.

In the centre of town there are some beautiful parks and gardens in which to escape the frenetic city life, as well as Lake Anosy, where you can admire Tana's vibrant atmosphere and colonial architecture from across the sparkling water.

NIGHTLIFE

Wandering around after dark can be risky for tourists, so it's best not to stray too far from your hotel. Look for other visitors in a respectable bar or hotel near your accommodation. Relax, have some Malagasy wine and enjoy the sunset.

GO NATIVE

Start the day at one of the numerous food stalls with a local breakfast of mofo gasy (Malagasy bread) and coffee. Then take a trip to higher ground around the palace and relax among the locals enjoying the view.

If you're feeling brave, head to a bar for some local entertainment. Although the music and dance of the Malagasy has often been ignored or forgotten in its own culture, it has experienced a revival of sorts in the past few years and is well worth a look.

WHAT TO BUY

At markets and stalls throughout Tana, look out for games, artwork and ornaments exquisitely carved from wood from the surrounding forests. However, be aware that the only accepted currency is the ariary; the franc is no longer used, although some prices may still be written in it. Credit cards are seldom accepted, and then only Visa.

WHERE TO STAY

The Carlton Hotel (www.carlton-madagascar.com) overlooking Lake Anosy offers relaxed and refined surroundings with a central location. Its facilities include an outdoor pool, Jacuzzi, tennis court, two restaurants and a very nice little bar.

WHERE TO EAT

Traditional Malagasy cuisine is always rice – the country's main crop – served with an accompaniment known as laoka. This can vary from beef and vegetables to fish or pork, all served in different sauces.

Try La Table d'hte de Mariette for a taste of traditional local cuisine. Although more expensive than some of the city's other restaurants, the food here is excellent and showcases all that is good about Malagasy cuisine.

French, Italian, Indian and some African styles of food are popular with the locals, so you it shouldn't be too difficult to find something you fancy eating.