Aussie flavour buster adds a fresh twist to the Old World

Published on 26/10/2003 01:00

Majestic Wine Warehouses, with 109 stores across the UK, including seven in Scotland, is the largest wine warehouse in Britain. It specialises in the sale of wine by the mixed case direct to the public and the minimum purchase is 12 bottles.

Shopping here is flexible and convenient: free car-parking, ordering by phone [phone]), email ([e-mail]) or via the website (www.majestic.co.uk), and free delivery to the UK mainland. Other facilities offered include sale-or return, free glasses and chiller bin loan and ice for sale. Importantly, all staff are wine-trained.

2002 Cuvee des Amanadiers Rouge

Vin de Pays D'Oc, S. France, Alc. 12 per cent , 3.19

Very drinkable, and at just a tad over three quid, very rare for a French wine this side of the Channel! A sniff and sip reveals a harmonious, soft spicy glugger that delights the palate right through to the finish – and with no pain to the wallet. 8/10

2002 Grange du Midi

Merlot, Vin de Pays D'Oc, S. France, Alc. 12 per cent , 3.99

This is produced from Merlot, the grape variety that produces the mega-expensive Chateau Petrus, which can fetch over 1,000 per bottle. Obviously, this one does not have such depth and complexity, but it does reveal ripe flavours of damsons and mint, spiked with acidity. (Buy two, save 1.) 7/10

1999 Kanonkop Estate Wine

Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, S. Africa, Alc. 13.5 per cent , 13,99

This is a stunning wine, worth every grape of its 14- quid, and I longed to swallow it. Tasting blind, I would put this wine in Bordeaux' left bank, of Cru Classe quality, and from a top vintage like 2000. It won't rocket up in price, but it will impress all who taste it. 10/10

2000 Chateau Caronne St-Gemme

Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France, Alc. 13 per cent, 10.99

Unfortunately, you won't find a wine that tastes like claret from a Haut Medoc Chateau cheaper than this, since anything less generally means the taste of the vineyard has melted away in the chase for price points. Not here, though: a whoosh of cigar boxes, black fruits, ripe tannins and succulent acidity dance on the tastebuds right through to the swallow. (Buy two, save 2.) 8/10

2000 Chateau la Fleur Plaisance

Grand Cru, St Emilion, Bordeaux, France, Alc. 13 per cent , 10.99

A drinker and a sleeper! The 2000 is without doubt a sexy vintage. Such is the demand for its top wines that most have spiralled out of reach of all but the seriously wealthy. This one reveals a velvety soft palate with notes of damsons, ripe acidity, and chewy tannins. 7/10

1998 La Reserve de Leoville Barton

St Julien, Bordeaux, France, Alc. 12.5 per cent, 14.99

An excellent dinner party wine! This is the second wine of Leoville Barton, one of the great Chateaux of Bordeaux's left bank. The advantage of this lesser wine is that it evolves more quickly, is ready to drink earlier, and is much cheaper than the first wine. Be prepared for cedar wood, spice, black fruits, and tannic grip. 7/10

2001 Graham Beck, Antony's Yard

Western Cape, S Africa, Alc. 13.5 per cent , 5,85

This is wine produced from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, a blend referred to outside France as the Bordeaux blend or a claret copy, and very popular among New World producers competing for shelf space with the real Bordeaux. But this does not even come close. 3/10

2000 Pirramimma Petit Verdot

McLaren Vale, S. Australia, Alc. 14 per cent, 8.99

Such is the tannic power of the deep black Petit Verdot grape, it is only used in Bordeaux when it ripens fully, and then is added only in the tiniest amounts. This wine shows that there are no such worries in sunny Australia, where its 100 per cent Petit Verdot reveals an excellent harmony between rich black fruits, firm acidity and the chewy tannins. (Buy two, save 1.) 9/10

2002 Casilero del Diablo

Malbec, Conchay Toro, Rapel Valley, Chile, Alc. 14 per cent, 4.99

A real shouter. Those bored by blackcurrant-flavoured Cabernet Sauvignon should try this 'wake-up' wine. Malbec is a thick-skinned black grape, famous for producing dark, flavoursome wines in the south-west of France. Be prepared for a full mouthful of fruit spiked with floral notes. 9/10

2002 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

Cte Chalonnaise, Co-op de Buxy, Burgundy, France, Alc. 12.5 per cent, 4.79

This blend of Gamay, the grape used to produce Beaujolais, and Pinot Noir,the precious black grape that flourishes in Burgundy, results in an easy to drink, acidic, strawberry-flavoured wine. 6/10

1999 Domaine Pousse d'Or

Volnay 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, Alc.13 per cent , 19.99

Twenty quid for red Burgundy is not expensive for a region where the very best can cost 500 a bottle. However, although drinkable, it won't impress the Pinot lover. 5/10

2001 Chateuneuf du Pape

Les Grandes Serres, S.Rhone, France, Alc. 14 per cent, 9.99

For a tenner, this is a very drinkable wine with a harmonious balance between spicy black fruits, tannins, acidity and a long, flavoursome finish. However, such is its lack of single vineyard terroir that Chateauneuf du Pape lovers won't be interested. 5/10

2001 La Vieille Ferme

Ctes du Ventoux, S. Rhone, France, Alc. 12.5 per cent, 5.49

Produced by Francois Perrin, one of the great winemakers from Chateau neuf du Pape, whose stamp and quality shines through even at this quality level and price. Juicy black fruits are showered with soft acidity and spiked with peppery spice and floral notes. 8/10

2000 Tatachilla, Grenache-Mataro

McLaren Vale, S. Australia, Alc. 14 per cent, 3.99

An Aussie flavour buster. Here, the Old World grapes, Grenache and Mataro (Mourvedre), create an aroma and flavour of eucalyptus and ripe black fruits, giving a velvety palate that tantalises the tastebuds from the first sip to the last swallow. (Buy two, save 1.) 10/10

2001 Kangarilla Road Shiraz

McLaren Vale, S. Australia, Alc. 14 per cent, 8.99

Regular Aussie Shiraz (Syrah) quality for this price point. The drinker will enjoy a blast of soft eucalyptus, juicy black fruits and peppery spice, all threaded by moreish acidity and backed by perfumed oak. To an Old World Syrah drinker though, this is one to avoid. (Buy two, save 1) 7/10

2001 Landskroon

Shiraz, Paarl, S. Africa, Alc.14 per cent, 6.99

Perfectly acceptable, but at this price there are plenty out there offering more pleasure. The palatepounding flavours of black fruits, acidity and oak could be too dominant without food. 4/10

2000 Bardolino Classico

Tedeschi, Piedmont, Italy, Alc. 13.5 per cent, 5.49

This Italian job delivers a very enjoyable sniff and swallow, offering a melee of aromas and tastes: tea, roses and farmyards all scream up the nose, swirl around the palate and are waiting there to be savoured on the long, flavoursome finish. 9/10

2000 Promis Ca'Marcanda

Gaja, Tuscany, Italy, Alc.13.5 per cent, \15.99

This wellcrafted wine is more international in style than Italian, presenting aromas of blackcurrants, damsons, spice, and new oak. The palate is soft, mouth-filling and packed with flavour, the tannins are ripe, the acidity fully integrated and in perfect balance, and the flavour from the swallow is long. 8/10

1997 Senorio de los Llanos, Gran Reserva

Valdepenas, Spain, Alc. 12.5 per cent, 5.49

Mature and ready to drink, this is produced from the flavoursome Tempranillo grape, the main black variety of the red wines from Rioja. It is a soft and mellow wine that introduces pronounced aromas and harmonious flavours of cherries, spice, farmyards, and a firm acidity to the nose, palate, and finish. 7/10

1998 Cune Reserva

Cosecha, Rioja, N. Spain, Alc. 13 per cent, 8.99

There are some stunning mature reds coming out of Rioja, but this is not one of them. Admittedly it's balanced, but it lacks the palate charm to get the wine drinkers reaching for the two fivers in their wallet. The planky oak and hard acidity left after the swallow suggest that one glass is plenty. 3/10