Restaurant review: Yann's at Glenearn House

Published on Thursday 7 August 2008 20:29

THE first thing you need to know about Yannick Grospellier is that he comes from Chamonix, high up in the French Alps.

In fact, come to think of it, that's really about all you need to know about Yann because it informs everything he does as the chef-proprietor of his eponymous restaurant in Crieff.

Yann's is as unashamedly French as champagne and camembert, as Gallic as grenouilles in garlic. His restaurant may be based in a beautiful old Victorian villa just outside the centre of Crieff, and many of his dishes may utilise raw ingredients sourced locally, but that is where the Scottish element ends. Not that the lack of Caledonian influences are any problem, judging by the way in which the good burghers of this sleepy Perthshire town have been packing the place out night after night since it opened, four months ago.

I could witter on about the beautifully contemporary decor masterminded by Yann's wife Shari, or the incredibly comfortable leather sofas in the opulent room where pre-dinner drinks are served. Or I could even mention that the place has five bedrooms, if you fancy getting stuck into the excellent wine list. But all of this is somehow surplus to the main event, which is the food.

As soon as you receive the menu, you're left in no doubt as to what sort of experience you're about to have. It's all there: tartiflette, raclette, fondue, crpes, foie gras, frogs' legs, snails. It's so damned French that it's like a pastiche. Only it's not: it is definitively the real thing, a haven of French mountain food – the sort of peasant grub that I adore, possibly more than any other type of cuisine. By the time I'd finished casting an eye over the menu, I was goggle-eyed and slavering.

Diana and I started with the frogs' legs, while Bea opted for the eggs benedict with parma ham, and Jake chose the tiger prawn cocktail. All were fantastic, with the five pairs of frogs' legs, gently cooked in a garlic butter, taking the laurels. And Bea's eggs benedict weren't far behind, largely because the conspicuously homemade hollandaise provided a beautifully tart edge. There were no complaints from Jake either.

Our main courses were, if anything, even more enjoyable. Diana chose the fillet of sea bass, which turned out to be huge and beautifully moist. It was transformed from a good dish into a superb one by the addition of an Iranian taboulh and pesto dressing that gave beautiful relief to the subtle flavours of the fish.

Jake and Bea chose the pierrade, which basically consists of a roasting-hot piece of Italian slate and a huge mound of bite-size chunks of chicken, beef, lamb and duck. I'd like to have seen some more gamey options, such as some pigeon and venison, plus perhaps some more interesting sauces than the mayonnaise-based options that were on offer, but those are minor quibbles because this was a marvellous dish.

However, I'm not sure that I would say the same of my tartiflette. This classic Savoyard combination of gratine potatoes, onions, pancetta and reblochon cheese is one of my favourite comfort foods, but while this wasn't bad, it was nowhere near the best I've had. More cheese and less liquid would be my recommendation.

We started as we finished – on a high. My crpe au chocolat was outstanding and, at 3.50, excellent value. Bea and Jake had the vanilla crme brle, which was equally tasty.

In all, it was a top-quality meal supp-lemented by slick service and great value. When Yann went walkabout, talking to diners, Diana offered the thought that the pierrade could come with some salad. Yann looked blankly at her, clearly confused. "You know us girls," she said. "We like some green stuff with a plate of meat that big." To which he replied, "But I am not a girl."

He didn't appear to be joking, but then he's French. Like most of his countrymen, he does things his way, take it or leave it. In this case, I'll take it. Vive la difference!

VITAL STATISTICS

Yann's at Glenearn House

Perth Road, Crieff, Perthshire (01764 650111, www.yannsatglenearnhouse.com)

Out of pocket

Starters 4-5.50 Main courses 9.50-18 Puddings 3.50-4.50 Cheese 5

Rating 8/10