A taste of the Borders

Published on Friday 19 September 2008 17:11

The magnificent mountains of local produce, the panoramic views of restaurants, cafés and pubs… yes, this part of Scotland is a beautiful location for having your fill of food festivals

ROLLING HILLS and deep valleys are what the Scottish Borders are renowned for. But as well as providing the perfect topography for visitors to enjoy outdoor activities such as golf, fishing, walking and mountain-biking, the area also produces the abundant raw ingredients that make this an up-and-coming culinary destination.

As we drove south from Edinburgh in the midst of a heavy shower, counting shiny 4x4s with their armour of mountain bikes as we went, our attention was focused on the challenge that lay ahead of us – to check out local eateries and producers in preparation for the forthcoming Peebles Food Festival and November's Borders Food Festival. But all that thought about food had given us a healthy appetite.

The Borders have always boasted impressive produce – being the nurturing ground of top-quality game, beef, lamb and fish – but, with a few notable exceptions, was considered a culinary desert as far as restaurants went. Now, under the auspices of Taste Scottish Borders, chefs are coming together with local farmers and producers to host food festivals celebrating Scottish fare, with cookery demonstrations, a gala dinner and farmers' markets. And so, as everyone else was jumping into their Lycra to hit the biking trails, it was up to us to get a taster of what would be on offer at the festivals.

Where better to start than in the beautiful town of Peebles in the lush green Tweed valley? We arrived at the Tontine Hotel, in the centre of the town's bustling High Street. Whisked in from the dreich afternoon by owner Kate Innes, we received a warm welcome in the richly furnished family-run establishment. Kate explained that the name Tontine derives from the form of money-raising used to build the hotel in the 1800s – investors lose their share at death, finally leaving a sole surviving investor and owner.

Boasting a Georgian dining room, the building has a recently refurbished bistro bar and 36 en-suite bedrooms, all tastefully decorated and with all the facilities a visitor would need. Breakfast is served in the main dining room, where a buffet offers an array of fresh fruits, natural yoghurt, cereals and pastries. There is also a choice of cooked dishes on the menu, such as poached or scrambled eggs, smoked salmon or haddock. And if you are planning a day in the saddle, I can vouch that the traditional Scottish breakfast will put power in your pedals.

Our destination after a long walk around town was Tontine's Adam Room restaurant, where we were tucked comfortably under an arresting arched Georgian window with stunning views across Glensax. Tradition is the buzz-word here, from the old-fashioned glamour of the dcor to a menu inspired by local produce. We were hard-pushed to decide between Borders beef, lamb or salmon, but the friendly staff helped with deliberations, and we were delighted with their recommendations. We opted for the flat-cap mushrooms with red onion marmalade and glazed Dunsyre Blue cheese, and the rack of lamb, served with creamed mint mash and red onion and apple confit.

Next day, our destination was Osso restaurant, where the contemporary feel and atmosphere could leave you thinking you've been transported far from this country town to a city gastropub. Buzzing with a mix of patrons, Otto offers a varied menu. Our tapas sharing-platter was huge and could have amply filled both of us as well as the two elderly ladies at a neighbouring table, who were so captivated by its assortment of foreign treats. And since they were obviously ladies who knew their home baking, we took a tip from them and decided to sample the mouthwatering homemade carrot cake. We might not have covered many miles, but at least that was one of our daily five under our belts.

Another day, another culinary mountain to climb – and we started at the Horseshoe Inn, in the quiet village of Eddleston. A destination for people who enjoy food with flair, it was originally a blacksmith's workshop. Although it has now been renovated into an award-winning restaurant and bistro, it retains a few quaint touches, such as the horseshoe-shaped windows.

Chef director Patrick Bardoulet combines a menu of classic French cuisine and locally sourced produce to create a modern French-Scottish menu. All this comes with an ambience of relaxed sophistication, where low ceilings and old stone walls are softened with French-style sofas and trinkets.

Menus are offered in the lounge area, and canaps are brought with aperitifs. As well as a handsome choice of mains, additional treats include amuse bouche, palate-refreshers, pre-desserts and petit-fours. We can recommend the pressed tomato and red pepper terrine with tomato jelly, the goat's cheese and bloody Mary sorbet and the Scottish beef fillet with crispy oxtail, buttered potato pure, thyme-roasted shallot and red wine jus.

A great way to walk off this feast is a brisk tour of the former glass factory in Selkirk, which has been renovated by Baxters into an Aladdin's cave of culinary paraphernalia and local produce. With locally sourced food and drinks, a huge range of cookery books and more kitchen gadgets than you could shake an electric pepper mill at, it's a foodie's dream shopping experience.

Where the shop whetted our appetites, the restaurant sated them. Painted a vibrant mulberry colour, it has a stark contemporary feel that is softened by vintage photographs charting the history of the long-established Baxters family tradition.

Slowly surveying our surroundings, we spied the homemade cakes. In an effort to minimise the calorie-count, we opted for simple but delicious salads, then indulged in a pudding for afters. Shona Grieve's Victoria sandwich cake was too good to miss. Walking past the patisserie counter, it's difficult not to reach for another slice or two of the sponge, or sample the Guinness and blue cheese pat.

However, the great outdoors was beckoning, and it was time to work off all that food with a spot of mountain biking in Glentress forest. The site offers trails of all grades, from beginner-level to black runs that challenge the best riders. There are also qualified staff on hand to coach those who are new to mountain-biking or looking for new skills.

For a leisurely day out, take a trip to Dawyck Botanic Garden, eight miles south-west of Peebles. Known for its abundance of native and exotic plants, this fine example of a woodland garden was first planted in the 17th century by the Veitch family, and eventually gifted to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh in 1978.

If you are more interested in history, head to Abbotsford House, near Melrose, which was built and lived in by renowned novelist Sir Walter Scott. Housed here is an impressive collection of ancient weapons and a library filled with more than 9,000 rare volumes. As well as the house, there's a river and woodland walk or the walled garden to stroll around. And if you're starting to feel a bit peckish, there's always the tearoom!

fact file the borders

Tontine and Osso are just a couple of the many Peebles restaurants, hotels and cafs involved with local farmers and producers in the Peebles Food Festival, which runs from September 26 to 28. For further information and to find out what's on, visit www.peeblesfoodfestival.com.

The Borders Food Festival runs from November 7 to 16. For more information, visit www.bordersbanquet.co.uk.

Tontine Hotel, High Street, Peebles (01721 720892, www.tontinehotel.com); Osso, Innerleithen Road, Peebles, (01721 724477, www.ossorestaurant.com); Baxters, Selkirk (01750 724017); Horseshoe Inn, Eddleston (01721 730225, www.horseshoeinn.co.uk).