A change is brewing as tea makes a return

Published on Saturday 31 May 2008 10:35

IT wasn't the coffee he had a problem with. In fact, as a barista working in one of the Capital's most renowned coffee house chains, he was proud of the quality of the freshly ground coffee beans, understood the expertise in making the espresso-based drinks and accepted the associated cost.

But former Starbucks manager Drew Buchanan had a real issue with the tea.

"I felt that while the coffee was a decent product, 1.85 for a pint of water and a tea bag was ripping the p*** a wee bit," explains the 30-year-old from Fettes. "I had been with Starbucks for nine or so years working as a manager in Princes Street and Forrest Road and I'd seen an rise in tea drinking, especially with students and younger people. Yet there was nothing decent out there for them. Just a tea bag."

And so, over a few whiskies at a wedding last year Drew and friend Jamie Russell, 30, from Inverkeithing, hatched a plan. The result is the Tea Tree Tea shop.

It's a real challenge to get proper teas on the high street – you can get a decent coffee, but when it comes to tea it's a case of a tea bag in lots of water," says business partner, Jamie. "In a country where tea is the first choice beverage of the majority of people, it doesn't make sense."

Tea Tree Tea opened on Bread Street just three weeks ago, offering over 40 freshly made tea leaf options, including exotic blends from China, Japan, Russia, India and South Africa along with traditional favourites such as Earl Grey, Darjeeling and Scottish breakfast tea.

With its combination of sofas, tables and chair, soft lighting and music, as well as free Wi-Fi, it's reminiscent of Central Perk from the US sitcom Friends, and perhaps that's their aim. But is there a place for a tea house in a market that seems all sewn up with the coffee bean?

"Definitely," says Drew. "Think about it, before all these coffee houses existed people were happy drinking freeze dried coffee at home. All of a sudden everyone is drinking freshly made coffee and it's now seen as a luxury product. So why can't tea be the same? Why should we just settle with a tea bag? Why can't it be fresh? It wasn't that long ago that we were a nation of tea lovers. There's no reason we can't do back to that."

Drew has a point. According to the Tea Council, tea has been a quintessentially British drink for over 350 years, first going on sale in 1657, marketed as a cure for catarrh, colic, drowsiness, lethargy and migraines. But it wasn't long before it was famous for it's taste – especially in the Capital.

Edinburgh had its very own tea company founded by Andrew Melrose in 1812. It started as a grocery shop in Canongate, but by 1833, Melrose's of Scotland became the first company to legally land tea in Britain from China independently of the East Indies Trading Company, and had exclusive rights.

Today we collectively drink 165 million cups of tea a day, but with the proliferation of US-style coffee shops, drinking it outside of the home seems to have fallen out of favour. Drew says: "Walking about with a cup of coffee is now seen as a status symbol. If you look around the Capital you'll see young girls carrying them about as if they're accessories."

Jamie is confident a backlash has started. "Tea is becoming extremely popular with the younger generation, and is now seen as a healthier alternative to the coffee bean. We're getting a massive amount of students coming in choosing white tea and green tea, and they are actively looking for antioxidants."

It makes sense. Teas and herbal infusions have been found to fight everything, from high blood pressure, cancer to a hangover. In fact, drinking three cups of tea a day has around the same antioxidant power as munching six apples.

"What we want to do is let people know that tea is good for you and it's good quality," stresses Drew. "It can be just as fulfilling as coffee too."

According to Scottish psychologist, Cynthia McVey, exotic teas could well be the next big thing.

She says: "With all the health links, the fat and cost associated with these coffees, people are now coming back to tea, especially these exotic teas, and shops which serve it. We could easily revert to being a nation of tea lovers once more."

&#149 Tea Tree Tea, 13 Bread Street, 0131-228 3100

QUALITY CUPPAS

IN the Capital we've always loved a cup of char. In the 1950s a cuppa was an event, and the former Woolworths on Princes Street was famed for its tearoom.

But where can you go now for a quality cup?

&#149 PekoeTea, Merchant Street and West Richmond Street: As the name suggests, it's all about tea here with 82 blends on offer. Prices start at 2.

&#149 The Elephant House, George IV Bridge: The gourmet tea house also stocks a wide selection of coffees, but ignore them and head straight for the tea selection, which includes options such as Assam, Ceylon, Keemum and Jasmine. Prices start at 2.50.

&#149 The Balmoral Hotel, Princes Street: Think fine china, silver teapots and strainers, and white linen tablecloths. This is tea drinking as it's best. They'll throw in some freshly made shortbread too for around 4.

&#149 Sherry's, Morningside Road: Tea drinking here is something of an institution for Morningside ladies, and the quaint tearoom is a veteran of tea-making, having been open for some 20 years. Around 1.