Robin Gauldie spends the weekend in UNESCO city Fez, Morocco
Check in at Fez’s newest luxury cocoon, the Hotel Sahrai (tel: 5 3594 0332, www.hotelsahrai.com), a stone’s throw from the hubbub of Fez el Bali, the old quarter. A double costs from around £120 per person.
Dinner at La Mezzanine (Avenue Moulay Hassan; tel: 535 638 668), Fez’s hipster hangout, where live blues, soul, and gypsy music is played.
Take a taxi to the 14th century Merenid Tombs (Tour de Fez Nord; free). Just outside the old city, they’re dilapidated but picturesque. Enjoy the view of the medina within its eight mile ring of walls.
Visit the nearby Borj Nord (ave. des Mérenides), a miniature 16th century fortress that is now a museum with a collection of arms and armour including gem-encrusted daggers, scimitars and muskets.
Back at Hotel Sahrai, visit the hotel’s Givenchy spa, where massages are around £60 for one hour.
Book in for a sunset concert and dinner at Café Clock (tel: 535 637 855, www.cafeclock.com), opposite Medersa Bou Inania.
Take a three-hour medina tour with Planit Fez (tel: 535 638 708, www.planit-fez.com; from around £45). Highlights include the smelly and colourful tanneries, the half-deserted Jewish Mellah, and the Musée Nejjaarine, a handicrafts museum where you can pause for a glass of mint tea. You’ll also glimpse the historic Kairouane Mosque, the most spectacular of Fez’s religious foundations.
Lunch at The Ruined Garden (Sidi Ahmed Chaoui, tel: 649 191 410, www.ruinedgarden.com). Order the slowcooked lamb mechwi in advance (it takes seven hours, but it’s worth the wait). Around £20 for two.
Explore the Dar Batha Museum, 5 place du Batha Oued Fejjaline, with its fine collection of carved wood and colourful ceramics.
Dine at culinary legend La Maison Bleue (2 place Istiqlal, tel: 535 741 843; www.maisonbleue.com).