Travel: 48 hours in Fez, Morocco

A tannery in Fez, Morocco

A tannery in Fez, Morocco

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Robin Gauldie spends the weekend in UNESCO city Fez, Morocco

Saturday, 7pm

Check in at Fez’s newest luxury cocoon, the Hotel Sahrai (tel: 5 3594 0332,, a stone’s throw from the hubbub of Fez el Bali, the old quarter. A double costs from around £120 per person.


Dinner at La Mezzanine (Avenue Moulay Hassan; tel: 535 638 668), Fez’s hipster hangout, where live blues, soul, and gypsy music is played.

Sunday, 10am

Take a taxi to the 14th century Merenid Tombs (Tour de Fez Nord; free). Just outside the old city, they’re dilapidated but picturesque. Enjoy the view of the medina within its eight­ mile ring of walls.


Visit the nearby Borj Nord (ave. des Mérenides), a miniature 16th century fortress that is now a museum with a collection of arms and armour including gem-encrusted daggers, scimitars and muskets.


Back at Hotel Sahrai, visit the hotel’s Givenchy spa, where massages are around £60 for one ­hour.


Book in for a sunset concert and dinner at Café Clock (tel: 535 637 855,, opposite Medersa Bou Inania.

Monday, 9am

Take a three-­hour medina tour with Plan­it Fez (tel: 535 638 708, www.plan­; from around £45). Highlights include the smelly and colourful tanneries, the half-­deserted Jewish Mellah, and the Musée Nejjaarine, a handicrafts museum where you can pause for a glass of mint tea. You’ll also glimpse the historic Kairouane Mosque, the most spectacular of Fez’s religious foundations.


Lunch at The Ruined Garden (Sidi Ahmed Chaoui, tel: 649 191 410, Order the slow­cooked lamb mechwi in advance (it takes seven hours, but it’s worth the wait). Around £20 for two.


Explore the Dar Batha Museum, 5 place du Batha Oued Fejjaline, with its fine collection of carved wood and colourful ceramics.


Dine at culinary legend La Maison Bleue (2 place Istiqlal, tel: 535 741 843;

• Ryanair ( flies to Fez from London Stansted with return fares from around £60;

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