Travel: Weekend Pass

Published on Friday 27 June 2008 15:42

Monachyle Mhor Balquhidder, Lochearnhead, Perthshire (01877 384 622, http://mhor.net)

Trundling down a single-track road in the depths of Scotland's lushest countryside, you could be forgiven for thinking you'd somehow missed the turning, or taken the wrong one. But just when you start thinking about turning back, as the woods open up and Loch Voil meets Loch Doine, a pink oasis appears against the vibrant green of the hill. This is Monachyle Mhor.

Why go there?

The 18th-century farmhouse is a real family business. It's been in the capable hands of the Lewis clan for 25 years and Tom runs the kitchen in true style while his sister Melanie is responsible for the fabulous artworks that hang on the walls.

How do you get there?

Follow the A84 north from Stirling, through Doune, Callander and Strathyre. After two miles, turn right at the Kingshouse Hotel, drive through Balquhidder and on for four more miles. As you come to the end of Loch Voil, the hotel is up the hill on your right.

What's the food like?

The fact that owner and head chef Tom Lewis was highly commended in the Hotel Chef of the Year awards last year should give you some idea of the quality of the cuisine here. He prides himself on using the best of local, seasonal produce – much of which comes from the hotel's own farm. The bread is all freshly baked from Monachyle Mhor's own bakery in Callander and is a delicious meal in itself.

Bed test

A recent refurbishment is now complete. The 14 rooms are all individually designed, but recurring themes include claw-foot baths, rich velvet sofas, crisp white linen and ironic antler chandeliers. It's unashamed luxury, with a twist.

Out and about

You come here for the splendid isolation, not the shopping and vibrant nightlife. So get your boots on and explore the stunning natural surroundings. Ask the hotel for tips on where to head – treks can range from 20 minutes to a serious all-day hike up Ben More. The village of Balquhidder is four miles down the road, with a great tea shop complete with roaring fire and home-made scones well worth hiking halfway round the world for. Fish for salmon, trout and Arctic char in lochs Voil and Doine, or golf at one of the nearby 18-hole courses.

Little extras

L'Occitane goodies in the bathrooms, TV, wireless internet access and a tea tray. Take your afternoon tea outside, overlooking the lochs. Just watch out for the dreaded midges.

The bottom line

From 105 for bed and breakfast in a classic room, rising to 337 for dinner, bed and breakfast in the luxury room, complete with king-size bed, twin slipper baths and steam room.